THE ROAD TO NOWHERE

Primitivo -Santiago to Finisterre and Muxia

2012-01-21T14:22:00.000Z

Camino Norte and PrimitivoVideo part 2 of 3

2012-01-21T13:58:00.001Z

Video Camino Norte part one

2012-01-20T18:14:00.000Z

Journey's End??

2012-01-17T22:02:00.001Z

Thanks to Rachel Thomson for the Photo

Through Santiago to the Coast and back again

2011-12-03T23:10:00.001Z

Reflections-Primitivo part two

2011-12-03T22:37:00.000Z

With so much time to spare having taken a cheaper later flight from Santiago I started to take my time and smell the flowers on this way, so different to the coastal route,it is so much more defined unlike the Norte which has so many different options-this way only has one high route diversion,as it is called Hospital I took the lesser mountain,still very demanding,but more of that day later.
   I found myself in a bubble just me on the road,having the 3 euro Alburges all to myself,checking the registration book each night I recognised so many names from the party nights on the coast one and then later 2 nights ahead of me,people from behind caught me up and then left me in their wake but I was in a good place,just walking eating and sleeping one seasoned leg in front of the other on this very hilly way,the weather was also changing, the signs of Autumn all around me,a lot of the walk is through silent woods with just the sound of falling sweet chestnuts hitting the leaf covered path,surprisingly none of them hitting me,just laying there under the leaf's trying to turn my ankle at every step and on the steep slopes down turning the path into a roller park,I grew to hate the chuffing things,after one particular fraughtful day I booked into my bed for the night,the hospitalera welcomed me and pushed a bowl of the bloody things towards me,I politely refused while fantasising how many I could push up his nose!!.
   the rain also came down with a vengeance the minute I stepped into Galicia but before that I had one last perfect day,a very hard walk/climb out of Allande culminating in the highest point on the route.
because of the dry season there had been many fires on the bracken covered hills,one high section had been closed due to fallen trees and rocks but as the sign looked old and the only alternative was a busy road I ignored it and slogged on even conquering my fear of heights for a while on the narrow path and the peak was reached,I felt like a great mountaineer and half expected Belgium television at the top to record this great feat,I lay down on the grass to view the panorama below me and if I had not forgotten the 6th rule of fight club (always carry spare camera batteries) I could have shared the views,I took pics from below the next day (the not very good ones below with the wind farm on top) but nothing could spoil this perfect day not even the cows with horns on the narrow path down the other side that finally took me through the most tranquil of woods into Penaseita and my bed for the night.
  and so the way continued one day blending into the next on this hard but rewarding route till I hit the CF at Palas de Rei to meet up with more people than I had seen the whole way on this most rewarding of Camino's

Reflections-Primitivo part one

2011-12-02T23:23:00.001Z

Looking Back on the Norte

2011-12-02T22:52:00.000Z

I'm sorry this will not be a detailed account of the route or the places to stay just a general view (mine) of walking this way in a very unseasonal September/October.
   the weather was spectacular-very-very hot just one day of heavy rain which had to occur while walking the one major road I walked on,.the people walking were in the main a young group plus a smaller older crowd that had walked from France or further afield-plenty of accommodation, my main impression is its so different to the CF it felt so surreal to be walking through and sometimes on holiday beaches in full hiking gear including two Naturist beaches-one of which still sticks in my mind'
   I had to climb one of the many hills that abound on this coast,this one had a steep drop through the gorse bushes,I don't do heights and was quite scared but I made it to the summit and slowly made it down the steep slope to the beach where I gathered my senses wiped the perspiration from my brow feeling quite inadequate,the sight that lay before me made me feel even more so as the beach was full of naked men one of whom was walking toward me,I wanted to sign him up and make my fortune making blue movies,the script involves young Spanish plumber calling on bored suburban housewife to fix final spin on the washing machine.
  My train of thought was broken when the man started to jog threatening to cut a swathe through the throng.I nearly headed back up the hill but stepping quite a bit to one side I let him pass.
   I later learnt I could of bypassed this hill by taking a 500mt detour(4th rule of fight club,read the guidebook!!!)
   another feature of this walk is the number of ferries you catch,very pleasant but again quite strange
   when I first came to Spain I thought it was one Country I soon learnt different especially on this way-one of my favourite drinks on a hot day is a shandy in Spanish, its clara/claro half beer half lemon,while in the Basque area I was taught by a barman to ask for a peaker,one days walk down the road proud to show off my command of Basque I loudly ordered from the bar only to be met by puzzled looks as I was now in Asturias
   a popular game show in England is called "pointless" where you have to come up with a correct answer that when asked -100 people didn't know ie "name a region of Spain" the pointless answer was Asturias,I was to fall in love with this area of Spain from its beautiful coast to its wild and very hilly interior.
coming to a fork on the way I had to make a decision,continue on the coast or head for the hills, as the next Alburge was closer a Monestery with good reports I found myself on the Primativo, a Horse of a completely different colour!!!

Reflections Camino Norte part Three

2011-11-30T11:06:00.001Z

Reflections Camino Norte part Two

2011-11-29T23:54:00.001Z

by now I was getting into my stride,the days had become familiar,the sun shone the road lay out before me all I had to do was put one foot in front of the other,but now I was one day behind the crowd I'd been walking with but the Camino does provide I thought as I booked into the only Albergue in Gernika, a youth hostel with a special price for pilgrims, 17 euros as it turned out not that special.as the next stop in Bilbao 25k down the road also only had a youth hostel with a boring city outskirts to walk through to boot decided to catch the monorail link into the city in the morning, while checking out the timetable I was joined by Silvia from Austria who had the same plan-so we rode into the city together.
She turned into the ideal Camino companion warm intelligent,full of fun and adventure and enjoyed a drink as well.
having done the tour of Bilbao we walked 12k out to the Portugalete and its transporter bridge and booked into a twin bedded room (no albergue)
she told me she was a 44 year old Social worker in a women's refuge taking a year out starting with the camino norte then meeting up with her boyfriend in Barcelona her only worry she said was how to last the 6/7 weeks walk without any sex, I'm there for you I said if the strain gets too much,she laughed and said I was too late she'd gone through her older man stage in her 20's

this vivacious flirty touchy feely woman floated in and out of my Camino for the next 8 days and evenings-the coastal route getting a little samey hot sun and warm beaches,she never did fall from grace-her only fault being she was the worst coffee monster I have ever met tetchy as hell till she got her morning fix.
our time together culminated in a hard 32k walk into Llanes-we swept into the old railway Albergue still high on the Adrenalin needed to finish at 8-30,she asked for a quite room for both of us and got it and then having showered paraded around in her bath towel using the Internet to catch up with her daughter,I was hailed from across the room by a young Swedish girl who was cosied up with an older Englishman,do you remember me she said,I searched my memory for young Swedish women with a liking for older Englishmen-surprisingly 3 came to mind (don't you love the camino) this girl from last years Camino who was memorable more for her Polish friend Daria who I am still in touch with was last seen in Santiago last year,the Englishman was called Antony and had packed his tent up at a festival in England and walked all the way down-he was my age wearing a white linen shirt that looked like it had been ironed-I try for this image but never seem to quite get it.
Silvia had placed my boots outside our room as if a testament to this fact
the next day I found out the 2 Englishmen had been the talk of the Albergue albeit without justification in my case
this was to be our last day together as I slowed down-Silvia continued on the coast while I headed out on the Primativo and a compleatly different Camino

Reflections Camino Norte part one

2011-11-27T00:43:00.000Z

Due to a lack of computers on this Camino I am only now blogging one week after getting back,I'm a collector of quotes two come to mind Kierkegaard wrote "life must be lived forward,but it can only be understood backwards" and Socrates who once said "the unexamined life is not worth living"
  so in an atempt fully understand the last 2 months I am writing now
due to the weather and the terrain this walk split into 4 parts
I flew into France September 20th and took the train into Irun just over the border in Spain not sure want to expect from this Camino having read contradicting reports and as always a little apprehensive about walking 800km but having settled into the Albergue the familiar surroundings of an Alburgue and the fellow pilgrims worked their spell and I was ready,opened a bottle of wine to have with a cold supper and was joined by Luca from Spain and Sara from Germany,all of us had started out at 5am that morning to meet round that evenings table-good people and a great start to this Camino,Luca 20 a seasonal barman in Italian alps in the winter,coastal holiday resorts in the summer-and Sara 24 a student.
the planned stop the next day was San Sebastian but we stopped just short at a religious retreat in the hills above,the day had been very hot 35c a pattern that was to be repeated for the whole of the next month
   years before I had rented a holiday flat 500 euros for a long weekend with my now ex wife and daughter number 3 in the same hills and remember looking down onto the beach where could be heard sounds of music and wishing I was down there with them,now for a donation I sleep in a 4 star yurt while Luca plays his guitar,life is good.
   Luca and his guitar became a focal part of my first week,everyday he tried carrying it in a different position till he found one that suited, what are the rules of the Camino or fight club as he called it
the first rule of fight club I said was never ever leave a bed bench or bar without first checking you hadn,t left anything behind,the second rule being never enter a toilet without tissue in your pocket-the first days he broke these rules so many times.
Sara on a tighter schedule started walking longer days,and she left us in here wake.
   on the French route the sea is the destination here its a constant companion which is a little strange,that plus the hot weather made it more like a holiday as we walked and sometimes sunbathed on the beaches.
we were joined by 2 more Luca's one a stylish man from Sardinia and one from Poland plus Thomas from Germany and later Natalie who also played guitar and sang Tracy Chapman songs plus a girl from South Korea,
this was rapidly becoming a beach party as we swam sung and sunbathed our way along the coast culminating in one glorious night dancing in Deba

we had all booked into the Albergue there high above the town which was reached by a glass sided elevator that I could only travel on with my eyes tightly shut-we had dined and wined on the roof-topped terrace visited the folk festival in town and having keys to the Alburgue arrived back quite late,viewing the lights of the town from our rooftop only to see the Festa take on a more raucous sound with the sounds of a rock band filling the night-so fueled by drink and encouraged by Natalie down the glassed cased lift once more into town we went
the rock band were circling the town-speakers carried on shopping trolleys.
this tired bunch of pilgrims danced till 3am with the friendly Basque people and staggered back to bed and slept till 11am,having admired a poster Natalie tore it from a wall and I carried it in my pack for the rest of the Camino,
whenever we met up again the toast was always "Deba"
A tired bunch met up for breakfast at 12am in the main square and see Natalie off on her train to Santandar to meet up with a friend
the rest of us walked 24km mostly uphill to the next Albergue-I limped into the place at 8pm and fell into my bed.all apart from Luca from day one made it,it was the last I saw of him.
the next day I only walked 7km and on an impulse took a bed in the monastery at Cenaruzza a small Albergue there with 11 beds,I had the place to myself.
how far have you walked the priest asked,just 7km I replied,Ah he said you are just a tourist in the 18thC the pilgrims were penitents and walked barefoot but he said wishfully its not the 18thC anymore,I felt like telling him I had been dancing a lot of late some of which may have been barefoot but held my tongue.
a large bowl of soup and dried bread was placed before me and a bowl of fruit,I checked out the visitors book to find a message from Sara dated 2 night ago saying she was missing both me and Luca and hoped to meet up again soon and share wine plus one from Luca dated the night before saying he was going in search of her and also hoped to meet up again thus forgetting the third rule of fight club "you don't chase things or people on the Camino,they find you"
I pointed out to the priest the coincidence of all 3 of us from day 1 staying at the same place,he told me the boy from last night was also a tourist plus he did not leave a donation pointing to the box on the wall.
he left me in peace to reflect on this first part of my Camino,I locked the door for fear he may come back in the night and lash this sinners back..In the morning I left a large donation and this tourist continued on his way

A COASTAL WALK ON THE CAMINO NORTE PART ONE

2011-11-23T22:31:00.002Z

"SELF-PORTRAIT with RED HAIR and STRIPED OVERSLEEVES"

2011-09-16T20:20:00.004+01:00

With just 3 more sleeps before I go back to the Camino,this time to walk the Northern route,flights all booked,the return flight 20th November gives me 2 months of walking,not that I think it will take 2 months to walk the "Norte" its just that the flight on the 20th was the cheapest I could find,and funds are a bit low.

I finance my walks by buying and selling on ebay something I have done for years and just when I think I have enough I go and spend the equivalent of 5 nights sleeps on a large framed exhibition poster of Egon Schiele from Austria found in a charity shop today.

I was introduced to this artist by son number 2 just before his 18th birthday.

when asked what he wanted for a present he replied a weekend in Amsterdam smoking dope in the cafe's there (you have to be 18 to do this) I said ok,later he changed his mind and asked if we could go to an exhibition of this artists work in the same city even though it finished 2 weeks before his birthday and meant he could not go in the brown cafe's,I can go in them another time he said,

This is when I first realised my son was fast becoming a man.

A great weekend was had with this new mature person,and I learned to share his love of this artist.

he now lives in Cardiff and makes a small living, now selling his own artwork. http://www.tom-kitchen.co.uk/

he used to have problems painting hands and went through what I called his "fugitive" period where he painted one armed men,so when I saw this hand dominated poster I couldn't resist it,so now it hangs on my wall a constant reminder of what great children I have.

Goodby to Lakeland Day 7

2011-08-14T20:47:00.001+01:00

walked the farmers mile into Shap-seemed to take forever.
Shap is on the A6 main road the highest road in the country and once the main arterial road through this area,long since taken over by the motorway M6 leaving Shap in its wake.
called into its main pub to find it had let its rear garden out to campers for £10 and free cooked breakfast deal.the pub was full of singing carousing campers but for once was not in the mood,stocked up with food at the shop,dined on the English staple diet of fish n chips from the local chippy and headed back.
short days 8mile walk to Orton today crossing the motorway and on to the Limestone plateau with its prolific evidence of Prehistoric and Primitive settlements-met up with the Rhine-Maidens and walked a while with them,
Later encountered the sweetest group of Americans ever. they were on a guided walking tour,camera's in hand full of enthusiasm and wonder,I could not help but be lifted by them,their joy was addictive,one chap was photographing all the strange flora that abounds in Limestone-he planned writing a guide on the walk based just on the flora,they kept going off on detours visiting stone circles and other remains led by their intrepid bearded guide only to join up with me further down the road always smiling happy to talk and full of questions -good people and a reminder that America is not full of tea party people.
it was good to have a short day and the village of Orton was beautiful an idyllic circular place with a great Country pub.I sat in its quite beer garden soaking it all up,was seen by the Americans touring the village who joined me their sunny disposition was undiminished,they were soon called to heel by the guide and off they went I miss them still.
the camp site out of town was the best one yet,I slept well.
day 8
Kirkby Stephen 12 miles and my last day of walking

Kirkby Stephen is the second largest town on the coast to coast and at just short of the 100 mile point the half way point.the hills had done for me.
Kirkby has a train station, part of the Settle to Carlisle route the highest and most beautiful train journey in England and stopping in Leeds my home city was too good to miss,I spent my last evening drinking at a musical festival with the Rhine Maidens and a group of other young walkers carrying on till the end,but for me it felt like a completion the hardest part conquered and just gentle dales left,if it had been Spain and no easy route home I would have continued but carrying stoves and a tent and sleeping on the ground for 8 days while climbing small mountains was enough,I live to fight another day with lessons learnt
Just booked my flight to Spain for the 20th September (£23) and the Camino Norte-well why wouldn't ya
but will be leaving the bloody tent behind.

High Point to low point at Shap day 6

2011-08-14T11:04:00.001+01:00

Day 6
late getting going,feeling stiff this morning,takes a while to find my rhythm but got there in the end,just in time for the main climb of the walk to Kidsty pike the site of an old English fort and the highest point of the coast to coast

Half way up the climb looking back
The two figures are long legged German girls walking poles in hand taking it all in their stride not stopping to catch breath once
plus carrying all their gear including a tent I would meet up with them a lot in the next few days

Standing on the top trying to keep my vertigo at bay sharing Lunch with the two girls from Dusseldorf reading from our guide books advising us to take our last view of Lakeland before heading steeply downhill to the reservoir at Haweswater and our days destination of Shap.
we were joined by a middle aged man bagging Wainwrights ( climbing all the peaks in Lakeland over a certain height) stopping just to eat a sandwich he bounded off like a mountain goat with more pike's to climb,I consoled myself with the fact he probably didn't have a girlfriend.
the climb down was hard very hard with the well walked track full of rocks all threatening to turn my ankle,each step jarring my aged knees,it seemed endless but I finally reach the bottom at Haweswater-just in time to see two young lads sliding down the steeper grassier route wearing their waterproof trousers whooping and shouting as they tobogganed down to join me and laughingly continue on their way
the next 5 miles were spent just putting one foot in front of the other till I reached the outskirts of Shap and was drawn to a farm with a field of tents and caravans.£5 for the night and just a mile from the shops of Shap or so the farmer said.

Patterdale and Angle Tarn

2011-08-10T17:25:00.000+01:00

Day 5
loosing track of days,the walk down from Grisedale tarn starts off gentle and then slopes quite steeply down into Patterdale.
Patterdale is a lovely unspoilt village in an alpine setting surrounded by the Helvellyn range and sits next to the beautiful lake of Ullswater unchanged from my teenage years.
I had the option of taking detours up Sunday Crag on the right or even Helvellyn (3118) itself and then on to Striding Edge,imaging a triangle and a footpath along the top edge with just enough room to walk,I have walked along the tops,but that was 40 years ago,oh to have those legs again,but have to make do with the ones I have now,so the easy route it was,I had breakfasted with the 4 other campers,none of us had intruded on the other the night before,now it was like we were best of friends having shared the vigil together,and agreed to meet up for a lunchtime drink in the only pub in town.
being a retired barkeep I can both talk and listen but mainly talk(on most subjects under the sun) and met many people on the way down,mostly on their way up out for a mornings walk,if I could have carried a small bar I could have set up shop at places along the way and done a roaring trade,my arms propped up on the bar putting the world to rights.
so I was a little late for the Lunchtime drink but my breakfast companions were still there enjoying the break,it would have been a sin not to join them.

both were walking on further than me and left me in their wake as we climbed out of Patterdale,the camp site by Ullswater looked good but it was full of caravans and RV's and I fancied another night of solitude,so a by now familiar afternoon of climbing to the tranquil Angle tarn.

the pic on the left was taken laying on the floor of my tent,the best front garden ever.

early morning risers on their way

my tent is a single cell (mistake) and condensation forms on the inside waiting for the morning sun to dry it out-so fell asleep once more to be woken up by a flock of Canadian Geese landing on the tarn,one of whom came to take a look at the strange old bird at the edge.

Leaving Borrowdale coast to coast

2011-08-10T00:47:00.002+01:00

Day 4
struggled to put the tent up in Stonethwaite (love the sound of that name very northern very viking) I was that tired, strong sun and week knees had done for me,staggered to the shower and hot hot water revived me, food fulfilled me,took a stroll down the road to the pub,I love walking through small villages at twilight especially to English country pubs.
the well lit pub was full of hikers but warm enough to sit outside,a trend I was beginning to find was that most if not all of the pubs in Lakeland had staff from Poland or other east European countries working behind the bar,a smiling lad told me all the staff lived on the premises the cost taken out of their wages,he was happy and it brought a certain charm to this very typical of English establishments.
all and I mean all of the drinkers had maps unfolded on the tables heads bent over as they viewed and planned the next days walk,I walked home humming Dylan's Back Pages "using ideas as our maps,ah but I was so much older then,I'm younger than that now"
the night was cold and not much sleep was had till the sun rose and warmed both me and the tent and I then fell asleep till 10am and caught the bus to Keswick the tourist capital of the Lakes,even after just 3 days in the hills the place seemed so surreal,every other shop sold hiking gear,very expensive hiking gear! and it seemed everybody in town was wearing it,the place had the look of an alpine sky resort,all the gear but no idea,but they looked good and I was able to stock up with things needed and treated myself to good food lots of good food,and retreated back to my campsite sated.
Day 5
the route recommended by the guide today was 18 miles (30km) and included climbing up Lining crag-Eagle crag-Helm crag and summit rocks and that was just halfway to Grasmere not the intended finish in Patterdale,so the new plan was to split the recommended routs in half.

looking back at Borrowdale and my haven of Stonethwaite it's good to see how high you climb in so short a time,it helps when you look foreword and see how high you still have to climb!!

more walkers were on the road today some even going all the way to Patterdale but they left me in their wake as they stormed up Lining crag just 2 miles from the village but already I was tiring

they are difficult to see but a bunch of the hardier souls took a break at the top and shouted encouragements to me as I struggled up the path (path!!!) on the left bless em.
this was getting serious,people fall off these things

lunch was taken at the top but it was bottled oxygen that was needed

my brunch companions were a Belgium couple similar age to me,good people who I would continue to see over the next few days,like most of the other walkers they were staying in expensive bed and breakfast places their gear transported between each place and just day packs carried during the walk.
if I had the money I would have probably do the same
.few people camped out but those that did shared some of the best moments of the way with me so no regrets-no gain without pain right right?

Grasmere the destination for the day lays hidden in the distance round the corner on the far right.
the path follows the beck most of the way and is very peaty and boggy like walking on a mattress. I slipped and fell twice.*******

"Grasmere is a lovely village in a setting endowed with sylvan grace and dignity,beloved of artists and poets and because of associations with Wordsworth,is known internationally and has become a place of pilgrimage" so my guide book says
but to my mind while still being a pretty village it had no soul just ye oldie tea and cake shops traffic jams and coach trips and two plush hotels,I drank a pint of cold beer brought to my table by a charming girl from Poland who carried my water bottle away and refilled it exchanged waves with fellow hikers finished for the day just waiting for their rooms to be ready so they could take their warm showers and lay on their linen sheets and sleep.
no campsites here so time to wander lonely as a cloud and try and find one.
word on the mean streets was what few campers there was were heading 3miles up (up!!) Grisedale pass to Grisdale tarn,it took a while to find a proper shop, food and a bottle of wine was purchased and up I headed

it took a while but made it I did,pitched the tent by the waters edge waved to the four other campers and watched the sun go down on this tranquil Cathedral stillness,
truth be known I was feeling a little down,I had made the mistake of buying a newspaper in town in search of sports results,but it was full of the horrors that had taken place in Norway the day before.
when I was young I rarely cried but now I'm a father they flow like the wine I was drinking,but the setting helped,I'm not one for churches but these high open places never fail to fill my soul with peace
as the sun was setting and it grew dark silhouetted figures started to appear on the horizon about 20 looking all the world like a band of marauding Indians about to invade the camp,they turned out to be a band of youngsters camping out on the far side of the tarn,their talk and laughter lulled me to sleep.
In the morning on the walk down the other side they apologised thinking they had disturbed me,I told them no problem and to keep on enjoying life.

From Pillar to Post

2011-08-08T16:06:00.003+01:00

So having travelled what seemed like the length of England I was ready to walk across it or at least I thought I was!! so this fool rushed in-getting off the train at St Bees I walked the half mile to St Bees Head on the Irish Sea, the starting point of the coast to coast and my bed for the night or at least the campsite.I had decided to camp along the way saving on the expense while putting up with the extra weight (the first of my many mistakes) I was soon bedded down for the night feasting on the noodles and cup a soups from the large stock of dried food in my pack.

DAY 1

Having spent the last part of the journey travelling down the coast from Carlisle I had decided to take the coast detour recommended in my guide-book 5 miles north before joining the direct path just 2 miles from the start.
a rainy restless uncomfortable sleep before packing up and setting off at first light 5am 15 miles to walk and all day to do it in piece of cake.It's traditional to first place one boot in the water on the east coast and then at the end your other boot in the see on the west coast,I had chosen to do the east coast first as this was recommended in my book so as always to have the wind behind your back-the downside being that you had to do the lake district first before the two other national parks.
The Lake district is very beautiful ( England's Switzerland) but it also includes most if not all of the highest peaks ( mountains) in England (second mistake)
the game was afoot and I was soon in my stride a little misty but great to be walking again,the view across the sea was of the Isle of man,northward was the Solway Firth and Scotland.

the walk takes you along red sandstone precipitous cliffs veined with white the nesting places of countless seabirds all making a raucous sound as they tried to repel this human intruder,some getting quite close,in fact too close for comfort,these were not the seagulls of holiday beaches begging for food but hardy cliff dwellers

the path was easy to follow and included a few stiles easy to pick out,one such even had what at first glance seemed to have a black bin-liner attached but turned out to be a pair of large blackbirds? who seemed in no rush to move off,in fact they treated me with indifference only taking flight at the very last minute

The path continued past a ruined coastguard station-observation hut before turning inland just before Whitehaven and I was faced with the view of the high peaks of the Lake District.
my pictorial guide contained all I needed and I mentally ticked off the small stages Fleswick Bay Saltom Bay Birkhams Quarry into Sandwith and onto the town of Cleator having crossed the railway line and passed the Chemical works,I could see the railway line and followed the path large buildings in view in the distance. turned out to be a large public school just up from the town of ST BLOODY BEES. I had some how connected up with the other route and was now having walked 7 miles was just half a mile from my starting point,"you have walked the ox-bow" the shopkeeper told me through his smiles "you wouldn't believe how many do it" oh how he laughed as he pointed out the roadway to Cleator 4 miles up the road and up it was now under blazing hot Spanish like sun passing through the small working class town of Moor Row a feeder town of the more industrious larger town of Whitehaven and feed I did on the best meat and potato pie I have ever eaten hot from the oven of the small bakery before finally reaching Cleater thanks to a comforting large yellow arrow painted on the road at a confusing crossroad.
More people were now walking having set of later and missing out on my circular detour
making use of their large maps strapped round their necks they marched on and I followed up and upwards to the top of the first peak "the Hill of Dent" 1131ft high and down the very steep slope the other side,a taster of what was to come in the next few days as I moved further into Lakeland.

the evenings end was ment to be the tourist village of Ennerdale Bridge but seeing a sign for camping at a farm 1 mile short I called it a day and fell into my tent.
Day 2
a good nights sleep,my camp site shared by 9 others all eating delivered piza and beer baught from the farmers fridge,why walk a mile down the hill to Ennerdale Bridge and then back up the hill he said. left the farm and turning right started to walk followed by 8 young lads who had done yesterdays walk in half the time I had but their feet were all bad and blisterd,after a mile of uphill road walking realised we were wrong, the lads turned round, but clever me not wanting to set off cross country following a bridel path that would cut the corner off and bring me to Ennerdale water the next tick on the route.
the guide I carried "A COAST TO WALK" by A Wainwright only suggests a route leaving up to you to stay on route or chose your own.
he also wrote "one should always have a definite objective in a walk as in life an objective is an ambition and life without ambition is .....well.just aimless wandering"

well I guess I'm the aimless wandering type.
the thing with this walk is there is no signposts no nice yellow arrows-just footpaths clearly defined on the Ordnance Survey maps,only I didn't have one (5 needed for the whole walk) and was just relying on my guide,I was starting to feel I was unprepared for this walk and I was right.
the hill was marked in my guide just cross it and Ennerdale water should be there,and it was but the nice bridle path came to an abrupt end leaving me high above the valley of Ennerdale with no path down

my path was by the waters edge and continued up the dale and over the peaks in the distance.
it maybe does not look too bad,but it took me 1 hour to reach the waters edge footpath, stumbling over rocks hidden by dense bracken growth,no bones were broken just ego's.
as I lay at the bottom taking a breather a passing mother and daughter said they had watched my decent while taking lunch and had quite enjoyed my antics,I nearly threw them in the lake!!
it was becoming very clear to me that this was no walk for old fools so with new determination I walked on

so popular are Wainwrights walks, that the grass and earth is eroded leaving rocks beneath quite often loose rocks,not the best surface to walk on

as I climbed higher it became clear I would have to wild camp, something that is frowned upon and is illegal in England,there is a hostel just over the ridge below Pillar the peak (mountain) on the left.
Black Sail hostel is the most isolated in Lakeland very popular and booked out weeks if not months in advance, so not for the unprepared walker like me
my route takes me up loft beck a steep climb to the left (not the nice gap between the two).

as I passed Black Sail hostel I met up with a bunch of Australians based there, on their way down off Pillar and taking a dip in the stream,I'd smelt the dinner cooking as I passed the Hostel oh to be organised.

Ennerdale was formed by a glacier as it tore itself away from Great Gable (mountain) and shuffled its way to the sea.
the head of the dale was to be my bedroom for the night,amongst the "drumlins" large anthill like mounds formed by the glacier.
thankfully I could no longer smell the cooking dinner and dined on pasta and cups of coffee and biscuits.
no shops no pub no water (apart from the beck)

Kipling wrote that triumph and disaster were both the same.
this photograph was taken while I lay in my tent reflecting on the day.
it also got very cold doh!!

Day 3
the climb in the morning took me a while and a hard climb it was,up rocks at the side of a fast running beck,stopping a lot to catch my breath and take these two pics.
to look back down Ennerdale and further to the sea made it all worthwhile and reminded me why I was doing this thing.
taking a path that came down from Great Gable I continued down above the Buttermere valley and Honister pass to the small village of Seatoller 5 miles 4 of which was on loose rock,not very pleasant but great views and if I had spare batteries I could have taken more pics!!!.the nearer I got to the Honister pass, the more People I met climbing up all clean and smelling of aftershave,out for this Sunday walk in the hills I wished them all well,especially when they told me the ruined slate mill that my guidebook talks of was now a working tourist place complete with cafe toilets and car park..
having gorged on Cornish pasties and coke used the facilities filled up with fresh water I continued down into Seatoller made full use of its only pub and strolled alongside a beautiful little river into Rosthwaite a pretty village in Borrowdale the most tourist of dales in the Lake District,no campsites here so on to Stonethwaite and found one with showers and a small pub just down the road,I was feeling very weary,tired from the walk on this very hot day and lack of sleep decided to stay the night and then take a rest day,catch a bus to Keswick (the big town) eat like a normal person and stock up with supplies.Lessons had been learnt the hard way time to take stock.

St Swithins Day Coast to Coast

2011-07-20T00:05:00.003+01:00

St Swithins day a Saxon Bishop commemorated in England on the 15th July,if it rains on this day so legion says it will rain for 40 days and 40 nights,it rained and the long range forecast for the next 30 days is heavy rain,just has I decide to walk the coast to coast a long distance walk across England (200mls) from St Bee's head on the west coast to Robin Hoods bay on the east

this is a walk I have wanted to walk for years and now I can,I had been put of in the past by the arduous nature of the trail as it passes through 3 national parks starting with the Lake District and finishing on the north Yorkshire moors my home county, but hey I have criss crossed Spain so why not England.

in my youth I had spent many a weekend hitch hiking in the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District carrying a small tent wrapped up in a sleeping bag bedroll-meeting up with friends from all over the north of England-singing folk and Dylan songs by night-walking climbing and pot-holing by day-happy daze.so now I get another chance to walk those blue remembered hills.
the picture on the left is from Dad-Fest when son number 2 and daughters 2 and 3 came visiting and discovered my secret stash of sunglasses.

since getting back from the Camino I've been licking my wounds and trying to get my garden back in order but my hearts not in it,its too domesticated and rooted and I quite like weeds and wild flowers plus when its not cultivated all sorts of things probably not seen for years come thrusting up,a testament to passed tenants of my home and their cultivation making it more there's than mine,its time to move on.
the village has been a safe haven but its too safe, a gentle peace full place but with the slight smell of decay.
so once more into the breach I will tilt at a few windmills on the coast to coast and then hopefully the Camino Norte on the coast of Northern Spain and then try and get this house in order and move on.

in the past things tended to happen to me when I was moving or just passing through,as the Sundance kid said "I'm better when I move" so move I will.

in view of the inclement weather forecast I have invested in a poncho and armed with a pair of classic Ray-Bans undiscovered by my children I will sally forth

When The Rooster Calls at the Break of Dawn

2011-05-25T19:47:00.000+01:00

me and brother David decided on a 2000mls road trip to visit Salamanca and the surrounding area for Holy week( Easter).1000 mls in having hugged the French coast all the way down-camping by the sea things took a turn for the worse tempers were frayed and after a day of driving the camino from Puente la Reina to Santo Domingo de la Calzada things came to a head,I went from wishing I was on the Camino and looking forward to my long planned for walk on the Camino Norte along the coast once I got back to England and my Ryan-air flight back to the Spanish border to being on the side of the road with a heavy backpack (in poring rain I may add) and having got my credential from the place with the hens in the church heading for Granon in the rain,it took me just 5k to know I was where I was meant to be and the bell tower floor of granon did not disappoint. guitar playing hospitalaros and a young Korean singing folk songs and it was like I had never been away.
The Camino kept providing for the next 550kms as only it can many great people were met, food and wine consumed round communal tables. You make the road by walking, where it is does not matter.I had made so many plans for this year none have turned out so far,perhaps the answer is not to make too many plans and just walk.
there is still time for me to do the northern rout who knows and maybe the coast to coast in England, Daughter number 3 has lost her job and wants to walk with me,which I would love.
in the meantime the garden needs tidying the house bringing to order and a time to reflect on so many things this unplanned for Camino gave me.
( the pics are in reverse order)

DAD-FEST

2011-04-10T12:18:00.003+01:00

Spring has hit England with a force not seen for years,A week of glorious Sun,we Brits so love it when it happens that everyone sheds clothes and head for the beach-park or anywhere where we can display our white bodies and bask in the rays,we spend more money and make plans for the rest of the year as if the warmth will stay with us for ever.
I was no different,and with thoughts of my next Camino in mind decided to walk 20km through Thetford Forest, one of if not the largest Forest in England an old old path that links up with an even older Roman road that goes up through Norfolk to the coast,in the past I had walked the coastal route and now had a fancy to link this up with the "Pedders Way", my walk I hoped for the next 3 days
Also I wanted a taste of reality and with this in mind was carrying a tent in my 12k rucksack-I hope to carry one on the Camino Norte a walk along the coast of northern Spain,mainly because of money reasons but also because I want to walk in the early evening and not have to worry about the hostels being full, which in the past meant booking in by 2/3pm.
I had pitched a tent in my garden the previous weekend, to be used by one or all of my 3 youngest children who were visiting the old man for his birthday in his one bed roomed bungalow,needless to say it was me who finished up in the tent-daughters 2 and 3 taking over the bed and son number 2 the sofa.
Tom son number 2 the artist even did a large poster for the event,it now hangs on my wall.His web site tom-kitchen.co.uk
it was good to have them there and fun was had but each night I had to creep into the tent and lay down these old bones-doubts creeped into my mind about sleeping in Spain in one never mind carrying the bugger hence the reality walk.
The day turned out to be the warmest April day on record and a small Norfolk village I walked through the hottest in England.
it was so good to be on the road again with the sun on my back not one person was seen on this walk through the woods and just to lay down on the mossy banks with my bread and cheese (and wine) was sheer heaven, naps were taken as I slowly walked this old drovers route-the rests became more frequent as the sun and the weight of my pack took its toll.The stillness of the woods only being spoilt by the fact this path lies on the flightpath of American jets from the 2 large American bases nearby,for all I knew the conflict in the Arab states had escalated !!
but even the warplanes couldn't distract from the peace and quite and timeless stillness of this English country lane,but the burdening weight and the hot day did-it was time to lay down my bed for the night but I had reached a part of the Forest that is closed to the public an area used by the military for war maneuvers and firing range,maybe not the best place to sleep the night so I walked on to a small village pub and rested for a while,the locals at first welcoming but increasingly hostile as they questioned me about my plans for camping out-this being Norfolk (rural rural) and quite a small place my face was known from the time I owned a pub 40miles away and memories were invoked of a night I took a cut down pool cue to a bunch of gypsy types intent on wreaking the place, it seemed that the pub I now sat quietly drinking in watching the big football match on the TV was filled with friends of these people,my first thoughts were could I divert the army from their maneuvers nearby or maybe call in the American warjets,I settled instead for phoning my nearby brother for a lift home,the thought of my own safe bed too hard to resist.
in penance for not walking the whole 3 days I spent the next day walking through and out of my local village to the water overflow channel one of many that cross low laying Norfolk,I love the local newspaper headline advert that stands outside the village stores it makes me smile every time.
the local paper is famous for its headline "Titanic sinks 1 Norfolk man killed"
The sight of the sun on the furrows of the newly plowed fields,the deer that scatter as I turn the corners,rabbits everywhere-the birds that shout and scream in order to frighten this poolcue wheelding maniac away,the strange horned highland cattle and the mated for life pair of swans that come back each year at this time patroling their stretch of water by the bridge, bring back the serenity of the day before,"its a new day its a new year and I'm feeling good"

Camino Algarve Travels with a Prostrate

2011-02-28T21:17:00.049Z

a cold bleak january full of man flu left me pining for some sun and golden sands so taking advantage of cheap Ryan air flights I fly to the Algarve in Portugal,land at Faro and take the train along the coast to near the Spanish border arrive at the station at Monte Gordo its in the middle of nowhere isolated, it looked like a wild west station I expect tumble weed to come blowing across the road, but at least its warm and not cold England, I follow the other people who got off and walk 2km into the seaside town that looks like high rise Blackpool out of season and book into my hotel £63 for the week including breakfast can't be bad and bad it wasn't in fact my room was great and came with a balcony and a view over the main square.
In the next few days I walk the beach left to the border with Spain and take a ferry across and bask in the sun my winter blues recede as I sit in the bars and drink my frosted beer,back to my great apartment in an evening, sit on my balcony and view this sunny world.
every morning from outside my window people clad as if on the Camino flow past my hotel walking poles in hand.I find out they meet every morning catch the train to some out of the way spot and walk back,I join them one morning and find out there is a huge community of elderly German and dutch that have been here for weeks and walk every morning, maybe this is the future for me, spending my winters in sunny climes walking poles in hand trying to keep death at bay while slowly fading away with a great tan and fit body,the thought depresses me and I retreat to my solitary outings along the coast visiting whats left of the small fishing villages slowly being engulfed by the high rise hotels and brand new towns of partly sold houses with no life one such visit takes me to me to the old town of Tavira which was a breath of fresh air,it even had Camino arrows painted on the floor,I followed them to see where they led only to find myself at the bus stop for the tourist train that circles the town,I was now in need of a toilet break and stepped into the nearest bar to use the facilities,refreshed I headed uphill back to the railway station only to be caught short once more and had to call into another bar, another beer and toilet break,it took me two more stops to reach the station only to find the station bar had no facilities and was directed by the owner to a large wall at the side where I displayed myself to half of Tavira much to the amusement of the other bar users who welcomed me back with smiles and thumbs up,I hate that this maybe the way my world ends",not with a bang but with a whimper"
having said all this I did come come back refreshed and benefiting from the sea and sun and also to get a bit real and revise my plans a bit for the new year,I cancelled my flights to Canada ( too expensive) I had not done enough research and while the young me would have thrived on 3 months of brown rice and no money the older wiser me took over, a little sad maybe but practical.
So I continue to count out my life in coffee spoons and plan smaller battles maybe the Camino del Norte but with frequent toilet breaks----my computer has just developed a mind of its own and gone into a somewhat colorful mode,I lack the skills or the will to do battle with it, so for the time being will have to except my blog has gone a bit jackson pollock

Video of the Via De La Plata to Muxia

2011-01-20T23:59:00.000Z

Year Endings and Future Plans

2010-12-23T19:25:00.001Z

So here we are at the end of another year,A cold England with snow and ice not seen before Christmas for years. the weight creeps back on slowly but the tanned legs still remain a reminder of warmer days in Spain. this Norfolk village creeps along slowly as I try to get my affairs in order,utility bills house cleaning. Came back to a full pantry and fridge thanks to daughter number 2 who had used the house for a short holiday with her boyfriend and managed to roll my car into a farmers field less than one mile from the house,thankfully both were fine,just bruised and shaken, the full larder came with apologies. So now I catch the bus to the larger towns in the area,the overheard bus conversations tend to follow the same pattern, who's missing, ill or has died recently I tend to feel very old by the time I get home.
So I make plans for the new year in a attempt to slow down "times winged chariot" in April I drive down through France and Spain with my Brother (in his car) hopefully with me driving :-}he loves Roman remains so we return to Salamanca and the surrounding area for Easter.
then in an attempt to get out of my comfort zone,if you can call walking 5 months this year on the Camino comfortable!! I'm stirred to go for a bigger challenge so in another rush of blood to the head I have booked flights to Calgary Alberta in Canada (out May back??? July) a low deposit and 10 weeks to come up with the rest hopefully-and I don't say this lightly I,m going to have to pull my finger out in order to meet the deadline plus money for the stay-The realisation of what I've taken on woke me up early this morning with a nice feeling of nervousness which rose to stark fear when I googled Banff National park near to the Rockies,the planned area of the backpacking treks and looked at the advice on how to deal with the Mountain lions Grizzly bears and Cougars, now the last cougar I met was on the Camino just outside Pamplona,thankfully I was too old for her, but I think these may be differant cougars ones with a taste for prime English beef. The bears will not be long out of hibernation the Female on heat for just a sort time and the growing female not on heat for 5 years, no wonder they are flipping Grizzly!!!
there are also the weele disease carrying tics the later stages of which consist I kid you not of " arthritic pain or swelling, disorientation,short term memory loss,the inability to concentrate- and mental fog" my God I've got the lot !! how am I'm going to tell if I've got it ??? But I have battled the bed bugs of the Camino and will go prepared. plus the Mountain passes will still be full of snow, This trip will be as far out of my comfort zone as I can get, I obviously have to get a bit real for this trip.
So the year ends, I have met so many good people this year I was truly blessed plus I'm a more chilled relaxed and happy person going out than I was coming in.
So for anyone reading this I wish them the same for the New Year, have a good one

a few last pics

2010-11-08T10:50:00.000Z

All Worn Out

2010-11-08T09:32:00.000Z

So here I am back in Santiago,waiting for my flight tomorrow having been out to Finnisterra for a few days-walking to Muxia and then back here to Santiago. maybe its the end of my walking for this year or the hills of Galicia have done for me but I found it hard-long 28km days over hills that in my experiance are a lot harder than anything the Camino from st John can throw at you. First there is the 30km walk to Muxia not too bad but you have to ford a river which at this time of year is in full flow with water up to mid thigh,they have started to build a bridge with the pillars in place but this only serves to channel the water into a faster flow,you have to aim your feet a good foot to the right of were you want to plant it,I did it quite gingerly not helped by 3 young Americans skipping across like it was nothing-they even offered to help the old man with his bag. a new rule evendently means you can not book into the Aubergue without one stamp from some cafe half way to Muxia. strong words were spoken as the guy was not going to let me stay-I told him I had forded a chuffing river and had pictures to prove it-he finally relented but said it would not be allowed in the busy summer.I wanted to walk back from Muxia as last year I had walked to finnisterra and wanted to dot the eyes and cross the t,s. I have done this so much across Spain that my way looks like a giant game of noughts and crosses ( tic tac toe). on my walk into Negaria I got lost for the first time this year with nothing left to do but walk the last 8km on a busy main road-walking on the edge of a road facing the speeding traffic is not my idea of fun and not something a sane grown man should be doing and I questioned what the heck I was doing. Stopping at a roadside cafe I watched the pope on the tv just 20km away but I was glad to be where I was,the waitress must have taken pity on this poor pilgrim as I was treated to the largest plate of tapas ever.filled with new energy I made it to Negaria but could not face the last uphill climb out to the Abergue and booked into a hostel in town-I was done for,so much so that I caught a 2 euro bus into Santiago the next morning (Sunday) the best value bus ride ever, exchange a days walk for 2 euros!!
I walked into the Cathedral square whiched still had the remnents of the el papa.s visit,it did nothing for me untill I saw a young woman sat on the floor her head bowed in tears,I asked her if she was ok-she answered yes she was just filled with emotion at what she had done in getting there,she stood up and walked away, her pack nearly as big as herself. this cynical old man sat in her place and reflected at what he himself had achieved in 5 months of walking this year and felt proud and even a little moved myself.
So here I sit,one more night then good old Rynair takes me home and I am ready for a rest and a chance to lick my wounds.I intend to hibernate for the winter,take stock and decide what to do next-something with a little less walking maybe. I have invitations to visit Extreamadurous in the spring-even an invitation to go to Canada and ride on the back of an Harley through Alberta ( giving it serious thought Phil who knows) for the moment I,m happy just to take it easy for a while visit with my 5 children and 4 grandchildren and show off my tan and new lean if not a little stiff body.
Thanks to all who have followed this blog and left such encouraging comments,they gave me strengh when I needed it

Stormy Weather

2010-10-29T19:21:00.000+01:00

today the rain came as only it can in Galicia and found me poorly equiped to cope,I had plans to make Pedrozo but fell 3km short and now stay in Santa Irena a place with no food and no kitchen but hot showers and very hot heaters ideal to dry all my gear, I made the mistake of hand washing most of my stuff back in Ribadiso do Baixo and it didn,t dry so poorly equiped I faced the day and what a day it was-I was soaked to the bone and on my last legs my fingers did not work and I was questioning the meaning of it all if not life itself,the bar I now sit in I passed 1km before the albergue too wet and cold to stop- the only way to keep warm was to keep walking,now I sit here well feed Germans and Dutch to the left of me and Lee from Korea to my right,a great bar great food (10euro,s) plus when you eat on your own a full botle of wine to yourself-today I have gone from the depths of dispair to one well fed happy pilgrim-only on the Camino.
now I sit 22km short of Santiago and a promised party to finish off this 1000km walk.Still have not worked out what to do for the last 10days of my trip-I will let the weather and my purse decide

Palas de Rei

2010-10-27T17:16:00.001+01:00

3 good days short of Santiago,the way has been good with just a little rain,I find myself getting there with a week to spare,what to do with that week is giving me a few problems making a choice is difficult when all you do is walk-I may catch a bus back one week on the via de la plata or go to porto or somewhere near and walk up from through Portugal or walk to Finnisterra I will decide later or the Camino will decide for me.
This time of year the Camino is not so crowded and even the extra pilgrims that have started in Sarria are causing me no problems I am so chilled,but for Sandy my Yorkshire walking companion it is too much and she goes ahead catching the odd bus,plus her feet are still giving her problems.
I am feeling a little tired,this will be the 5th month I have walked this year-a bit much I think but when ever I sit and reflect I don,t regret anything its been a great year where else would you want to be?.but maybe next year something a little less tiring I think "I will comb my hair or maybe eat a peach and wear white flannel trousers and walk along a beach.

Welcome to the Camino Frances

2010-10-18T17:58:00.000+01:00

Walking slowly from Astorga,now 21km short of Ponferrada,my walking companion Sandy also from Yorkshire has a bad foot and is taking it slowly-an ideal situation for both of us,its good to slow down and take in the sights and a vista I will never tire of.

already met so many people, it feels good to be back on the madhouse.

PICS from the end

2010-10-18T17:47:00.000+01:00

PICS from the start

2010-10-18T16:18:00.001+01:00

? ASTORGA-A FINISH ¿

2010-10-16T15:19:00.000+01:00

So I made it,now what to do for the next 3 weeks,I will let the Camino decide and walk again on this French way at least for a little way, already there are more people in my dorm here than I have seen for the passed 4 weeks I,m kind of liking it,last night I had a 40 bunk place all to myself,it was cold-so cold in fact that I retreated to the warmth of the kitchen and putting the 4 electric plates on max managed to plunge the whole place into darkness,it took me half an hour stumbling about in the dark to find the trip switch,tonight I have to have a top bunk its so full=but at least its nice being in a town I know.
I,m sure looking back I will remember the Via de la Plata with fondness,the first half at least (the last half was a bit of a slog over never changing terrain, Apart from the welcome solitude what I will remember most is the kindness of strangers and the warmth of the people on the route-always a friendly greeting to this pilgrim,I hope it stays like that when the route gets more popular, I entered Zamora like a king being greated it seemed by the whole population, all of them pointing out the way and where to find the aulbergue, leaving Benavente up the hill I stopped for a rest and a dark clad old lady gave me grapes and bannanas for the road and asked I say a prayer for her in Santiago-that I will do-the staff given me carved with the words Camino de Santiago my first proper staff, the lady said my eucaliptas branch was not proper,even the few cyclists have all been welcoming all calling out greatings, the cars and lorries that honked a greating just when I was feeling low lifted my spirits and made the way less hard and last but not least the younger women that gave me a flirty smile and wave as she passed in her smart car,that was like a ray of sunshine on a cloudy day and made this man of a certain age feel a lot younger and put a spring in my step for the next 5 km.
so if I walk all the way to Santiago its 250km more and with 3 weeks thats just over 11k per day,I plan to take my time and enjoy it all or book an early flight if not.
just been told the doors are open in the morning at 6-30 and out by 8 as it does not get light till 9 and at the moment its very cold and I don,t cast a shadow till at least 11 its going to be interesting-welcome to the wacky races.

A BRIDGE TOO FAR

2010-10-13T09:55:00.000+01:00

I have a fear of bridges and as nice as these roman one,s may be they still have to be crossed and the walls were not ment for 6 foot high people and with a rucksack making me top heavy I am in a state till I get to the other side often walking in the middle of the road and traffic till I get to the other side.
I am now in Benavente the last week as been much of a muchness the days all blend into one sleep and walk the vista remains the same each day a 2 metre wide track fairly close to the N630 ( like the meseta only not as crowded) my constant companion in fact my only one,we now part company as it winds its way to Leon,one of these days I will drive its full length and visit as a tourist the great city of Salamanca and others,till then I pound out the miles, its a great walk for stillness and quite contemplation but I was never one for keeping quite too long,so still with the remains of the cold and in an effort to get to Astorga sooner I treeked 35km into Benavente took too long to find the empty locked Refugio and at 8-30pm too late to get the key from the tourist office,this will give you some idea of how many people walk this way, this Refugio sleeps 80 and like tigger I,m the only one.
the hostell Bristol was 18 euros and worth every penny,but now after the punishing walk I am tired, the girl in the tourist office offers me the key to stay another night,I am tempted that or just walk 8km to the next Refugio at Villabrazaro-the best laid plans of mice and men and all that, my attempt to gain ground as backfired, so I sit in this library and catch up.

DOCTOR DO-LITTLE

2010-10-09T16:22:00.000+01:00

Just arrived in Zamora walking poco poco,I,m now the cat that walks alone,the whole road is mine to myself I have reached that stage in any Camino when my mind is still-I stroll the way as if promanading down any country lane with not a care in the world,each day a new sunset view each morning a new sunrise the most people in any of the aubergues is 4-Vasco from Portugal from day one has caught up a French lady and one German guy Martin but I never see them on the road.
the weather gets cooler now (21c) and today it rained for the first time turning the dusty clay track into a quadmire but all is well all is taken in my stride I work through the songs of Bob Dylan and Fairport Convention in my mind and the birds join in "Zipperdy do dah Zipperdy a my oh my what a wonderfull day"
this trippy state of mind might have a lot to do with the fact I,m in the final stages ( I HOPE ) of a bad head cold and I am eating tablets-but the stages now are small 17 to 20km and I´m getting into my stride.
My flight home is not till the 9th Nov so as the man sang "We have all the time in the World"
hopefully I can retain this zen like state of mind when I reach Astorga, the next main town is Benavente about 60km down the road,it may take a little time "As I gaze apon the chimes of freedom flashing"

La Man of Salamanca

2010-10-05T18:11:00.002+01:00

so 3 weeks in and over half way there,it may be the silver route but finding an internet cafe is like looking for gold dust,but I sit here reflecting on the past 3 weeks,getting cooler now but those first 2 weeks were a killer.
an informal gang of 4 was formed Phil from England,the Irish girl Noula, Millitte from Denmark and me.
Phil is a beer monster and chief rabbit following is Noula with Millitte and me bringing up the rear the highlight of our week together was a mad full moon walk.
it started with an easy 27km walk into Merida booked into a dirty auberge down by the river left our bags and hit the town for lunch in the tapas bars a tour round the roman remains by Walt Disney toy steam train and then a siesta in the park a long evening meal and back to the Auberge I can,t remember who came up with the idea (Noula was later blamed) but we decided to leave the Auberge and moonlight walk the 17km to Aljucen,bags were collected,the cold machine was raided for water or in Phils case beer and we set off through the woods our head torches on full beam as we searched for the way spread out like an Indian war party looking for signs of arrows, footprints or bike tracks I don,t think we could have done it sober but did it we did with just a half hour power nap in the woods watched over by Noula who stayed awake (afraid of the dark) We hit the town just as the bar opened at 6am so coffee con letchie and tostadas for all and bocadillas for the road. we were soon joined by the towns Auberge crowd (5) who said later they were faced by 4 mad laughing red eyed pilgrims with bits of forest floor sticking velcro like to there trousers.
The problem we had not given thought to was what to do in a small town at 6am=nothing left to do but hit the road again for another 21km to find our bed for the night in Alcuescar a residencia for mentally handicapped rather fitting realy.
The next day being Sunday and while the mood was still on us we did the 40km to the big city of Caceres as the day could be split up into 4 stages (bars) where rest and food could be got. that evening sitting in the Plaza Mayor frosted beer glasses in hand we toasted our adventure,nearly 100km with just 2 nights sleep.
it was madness but joyfull0but there was a price to pay Phil let down by his ankle stayed back a day (only to pass us 2 days later=he is now 2 days ahead with Noula)
one of the hard bits about this Camino is the distance between beds,31km to the albergue by a resevoir was to be our last as a group= Millitte just did 14k the next day and hung back to rest and write postcards-I managed another 10 while Noula was seen dissapearing over the hill looking like the duracell bunny her little legs pumping away. Millitte catched up with me in Galisteo ( she,s taken to hitch hiking as she gets lost a lot) our last night was spent with vino tinto as she told me of the death of her 21 year old son 4 years ago hit by a speeding taxi and after a deep depresion was slowly coming to terms with it but each day she says he walks with her on the Camino.
The distances I thought impossible before I bang out now-there is no choice the 40km between Carcabose through the triumphal roman arch at Caparra and on to Aldeanueva was the only choice.sent on my way from the owner of the hostel in Carcabose with a kiss and 2 hard boiled eggs, she was still waving as I reached the corner,I felt as if I was being sent off to war.
the days are long still and silent now and my knees are holding up but I think I take the Silver route all the way to Astorga and there join up with the French way. this is a beutifull walk and great for contemplation.
"but this aint no party this is aint no disco this is aint no fooooling around"

a few pics

2010-09-27T19:08:00.000+01:00

Hot Hot Hot

2010-09-21T06:03:00.000+01:00

6 days in and this is the first internet,having to sit here in the dark 5-30am, que a mile long last night here in Fuente de Cantos-great auberge.
Arriving in Seville was hit by the heat as I got off the airport-40c and it seemed like no air-was sunburned by the time I hit the backpacking hostell-quick dash out to get the passport from hotel simon first stamp at the Cathedral-back to the hostel-evening spent on rooftop terrace with early 20s crowd none had heard of the Camino,one lad 23 spent the evening smoking joints and reading a book called breaking through by some dutch guy-said he was having to read it twice to make any sense to it all-put me in mind of all the books I had read at the same age. he later spent the whole night coughing in the bunk across from me-the cardboard rouch will get you every time.
hit the road early head still full of those books of yesterday "on the road" "dharma bums" amongst others-feeling more a part of the dead beat generation these days-crossed the bridge and down the palm tree lined route a truly hotel calafornia sunraise-you can book into the Camino but its seems you can never leave.
Castilblanco 20 odd km down the road was my first bed and was it earned the last 10k nearly did for me-I have never walked that far in heat that bad-spent the whole time sucking on the nipple of the Camelbac water pouch-I will get used to the taste of rubber i,m sure.
The heat was to get less over the next few days the highlights being the terrace of El Berrocal after a dinner of venison and great wine watching the thunder storms in the distance-the relief of getting the 16k main road walk part of a 30k day out off the way and through the park set out for tree growing when the lightning and storms hit us.
Almaden de la plate where one of our group of seven who had told me she was spanish and spoke no english turned out to be from Ireland-she said the Camino had taught her to be wary of men of a certain age and she had been keeping her distance but was now thawing towards me-we spent the evening talking shared camino experiancies-I went to bed feeling old.
El real de la Jara and my evening meal in a deserted bar outside the church only to be joined by what seemed the entire village as they streemed out of saturday mass.
Monesterio tired days walking questioning why I was there -these are not easy days and I have yet to get into the Zone-followed by a truly great walk into Fuente followed by Lunch with the irish girl Noula ( see stayed at yours reb last year)
who is now after 6 days thawing and now making me feel less old and threatning.
So here I am and as noula say,s why would you want to be anywhere else but on the Camino-today we walk to our first city Zafra-the small group off 7 of us that started out 6 days ago are now part of 27 that stayed in this great Auberge last night.

My Name Is Ian and I am a Camino Addict

2010-09-13T15:43:00.002+01:00

dovedale

chuff it I'm off on the Camino again, Englands not safe for me. i'm sitting here full of cold after a wet Norfolk summer and two matching toenails have dropped off!!!
Having got back in July and in an aim to keep my post camino weight I went back to my old badminton club only to do my back in and to cap it all was asked for my years subscription and would I like to buy a ticket for the Christmas dinner!
walking through the local supermarket car park I tripped and fell in a foreward roll sort of way saved only by my backpack from a serious head injury even so my ribs hurt for a week.
Laying there dazed and confused hopeing no one had seen me or worse still have some spotty youngster stand over me asking if the old man was ok and could they give me a hand back on to my feet.
don't get me wrong I like this area of Norfolk and its big sky,the village is calm and peaceful and the only good thing about smoking the odd cigarette again is that I get to sit out in my garden of an evening and take it all in.
I've been back to Berlin to see old friends and friends have visited me here,seen all of my 5 children apart from son number 2 and got to see the fast growing 4 grandchildren.A camping trip is arranged this weekend with daughters one and two, I'm kind to them giving them such a good chance to boss me around for a whole weekend.
But the Camino calls and on the premis that if you do nothing-nothing happens I'm off again.
I have booked a flight to Seville for the 14th of September to walk the Camino Mozarabe or via de la plata.an old roman road ( 1000klm )used to transport silver up through Spain.
The route comes with a few problems not least of which is the heat and lack of water sourses, in summer temperatures can reach 40c and above hopefully September will be cooler though today in Seville it was 37c.
my first nights bed is booked the "Living Roof" backpacking hostel boasting the best rooftop terrace in Seville, as this boast is echoed by a number of other hostels we shall see,but it is very close to the Cathedral the starting point of the walk.
so once again this fool sets of, wish me luck.

2010-08-30T17:03:00.001+01:00

Abroad Thoughts From Home

2010-07-13T22:52:00.006+01:00

Back Home after 3 months,nice to sleep in my own bed after sleeping in about 80 others spread through 2 countries,mind you it was strangely difficult to sleep without the lullaby of snoring to lull me to sleep.Mind you getting to my front door through the overgrown garden and then to climb over the pile of bills in the hall was a wake up call. now as I slowly bring the garden up to shape and even more slowly work my way through the overdue bills I have time to reflect on what I managed to do 1000mls-1800km and a lot of that with a crocked knee I realise hey I'm pretty strong not only that but also the realisation that most of the people I walked with also came to realise that they too had a mental strengh they didn't know they had,to share that experience with people from all over the world was a heady thing, one I will never forget.anyone who has walked the Camino knows what I'm talking about, so I raise my glass to all that walked with me and all those still to walk it and share these 2 video's

I,ve Seen Fire and I,ve Seen Rain

2010-06-13T08:05:00.003+01:00

So here I sit in Santiago only the second day in 10 weeks I don,t walk tomorrow I fly home,thats if I can get my Ryan air ticket printed off,Last Sunday I caught the bus to Finnisterre met up with lots of people not seen for days and some not for weeks it was great to see everybody again,with over a week to kill nothing left to do but walk hey thats what I do.
So walked the 30 k to Muxia (just like that) nice walk and the sun came out,then the bus to Ferrol and walked the full lengh of the English way,something I failed by 25k when last walked with Rosie,only problem was it rained like it can only rain in Galicia,every day but the last one when in a fit of madness walked the full 40k from Bruma to Santiago,only 5 people on the way,met up with in Neda and walked with 4 of them to Bruma and with a young couple from the Czeck republic into Santiago,this time I saw the city in a different light a quite more peace full town,all the Pilgrims tucked up for the night as we walked around at midnight,one of the benefits of staying in a backpacking hostel,so know its Sunday and nothing to do but chill and try and get some things washed and dried,so as not to continue the Tom Hanks film theme,and have people think I was moving into the Airport,
So nearly the end of what has been a great walk bring on the next adventure.

Just Sitting Watching The River Flow

2010-06-04T14:53:00.005+01:00

This morning with just 40km left to go I sat by a river with my feet in the water and reflected on what had gone before and what lay ahead and felt good,but all things must pass and tonight with just 15km left to Santiago I am keen to finish and go home,thoughts of home (unpaid bills to pay ect) and the future intrude,as yet I had given little thought to when or even how I was to get home,now it seems flights are too expensive as are the trains so its looking like the bus,I believe I can get one to Paris ( I love it in the springtime) if not please look out for the bearded one hitching a lift.I have been so blessed on this epic walk what with the people I have met and the sights I have seen for example 2 reasent memories,weeks back I met an elderly lady from Germany the image of Audry Hepburn in her later years big sun hat included,she was nervous of what lay ahead,in the hills of Leon she sped past full of joy and pride in what she had acieved, I met up with her again in the bar last night she was being dined by a tall dark stranger we raised our glasses and smiled,she looked 20 years younger,and 2 nights ago when the whole bar linked arms and in 10 different languises (can,t spell) sang "for old langsyne" happy days.
So tomorrow Santiago for one maybe two nights and then home before a much looked forward visit to Berlin.
a famous English Sportsman once said after winning his 3rd gold for rowing that if he was ever seen in a boat again we should shoot him,he went on to win more golds,I feel the same about walking,but already have started to think about the coast to coast in England!!!

ALMOST THERE

2010-06-04T14:20:00.001+01:00

The Walking Man

2010-05-28T15:28:00.000+01:00

Just arrived in Villafranca with O Cebreiro to climb tomorrow or maybe the day after.
can,t believe my knee is holding up, each night ice is applied and I keep going. It seems I have no choice I have been walking so long my legs seem to have a life of there own,I step out the door and off they go,as anyone who has walked the Camino knows that its hard to leave, because the Camino is the people on it,the ones you walk with eat with sing songs and drink wine with,no need for me to travel the World its right here walking this road to Santiago with me.My tan gets deeper and my beard gets longer and I am in a good place. (davidwho sang the blog title song?)

The Real Camino

2010-05-22T16:02:00.001+01:00

Just outside Sahagun the way divides in two,one is the Camino Real a 2m wide gravel path to Mansilla 27km long.
The alternative is the Calzada de los Peregrinos a mainly Roman road higher and longer at 31, that road was ment for you and me.
I walked with Phil a man from Alberta Canada with an accent stright from the film "FARGO" we had the place to ourselves and truly felt the history and the vastness of the Meseta,for the first time I listned to music on phils mp3 while he went in search of Roman relics,I danced down the road to Van Morrison, my walkingstick as been lots of uses to me, today to the sound of "Baby Please Don,t Go" it became my air guitar and boy did I play it.
so much fun was being had we decided to make a day of it and sleep out the night,a break for lunch then a nap under the trees where I took the lead part in the remake of the film "A Bugs Life" stocked up with food and wine and walked till 8pm a distance of 34k from Sahagun, made our beds beside a quite railway track watched the sun go down lay back and then watched the best star show I have ever seen interupted only by the quite railway track now turning into the main freight line into Leon, each train sounding like it was going right over us.
But nothing was going to spoil the show not even the forgotten fact that the Meseta is high and gets cold at night!!!.
We woke with the dawn and walked like true Pilgrims into Mansilla drank coffee and hopped like sheep onto a bus into Leon.
20k down the road finds me in one of my favorate Albergues the de Jesus in Villar Mazarife a welcome relief after the restrictions of Leon.
Thoughts of home intrude and new plans are made daily only to be changed by what the Camino brings,I may have not got what I want but as always the Camino brings you what you need.
Today the boots that have help me walked 2 Camino,s where left by the side of the road if you ever pass them please say Hi

A Man For All Seasons

2010-05-22T15:00:00.001+01:00

my boots

Here comes the Sun + The Moveable Feast

2010-05-19T17:37:00.002+01:00

Arrieved in Burgos in snow and rain, started the next day in -3 degrees passed the locals scraping ice from their windscreens and walked in search of the sun and slowly over the next few days I found it in abundence so here I sit in Sahagun burnt to a crisp,this trip is certainly a walk of extreams.
One of the great things of a Camino is the evening meal,the best nights are when you have a kitchen and people share in the buying and the cooking of vast meals,not to be outdone most people buy far too much food and everybody buys too much wine.
Such a night was had in Castrojeriz and we eat talked and drank the wine and fell into our beds,and for me slept right through to find a nearly empty Albergue and a bag of spare vedge and breakfast stuff,the rest of the mountain of unused food had been spread amongst the rest of the diners and was now being carried along the Camino.
It took 3 days for the food to meet up in various places and rest stops and be consumed, The last item a head of lettice had been carried for two days in a carrier bag by Jenna the Jersey girl a new starter from Burgos and quickly adapting to being a Pilgrim,we told her that since she had had it for two days she must now carry it to Finnestere and burn it as the sun set,we got short shift and we eat it for lunch along with the last of the toms peppers ham onions and sweaty cheese plus 2 onions found in my bag, what to do with the jar of jam also carried by me was solved by the Jersey girl who developed a taste for jelly and lettice as she called it.
The days become a moveable feast with breakfast in one town,you sit in a bar 6k down the road for a beer and your breakfast companions slowly join you and so it goes on through lunch and to tonights shared meal here in Sahagun.
We lost Jenna today a victim of the coughing flu type epademic sweeping the Camino,each night the coughing and snezzing gets worse drowning out even the most noisiest of snorers.She stays back a day in an atempt to recover,its only a matter of time before I sucome!!
We still are missing 4 oranges-bannanas and red peppers, they may turn up in the next few days or it maybe time to have a look at the bottom of my pack.

Castrojeriz

2010-05-15T14:41:00.001+01:00

My glasses are broken my boots are ready for the bin,and I,m feeling ready for the knackers yard.
But a good hot shower food good company a glass of wine a good nights sleep and you hit the road if not running at least moving in a forward direction.
the last few days have seen every type of weather going and as I sit here in the Casa Nostra in Castrojeriz the sun shines.
a 30k walk into Logrono mostly in pouring rain, snowstorms from Ages through Atapuerca to a full house in Burgos, A-2 walk into Hornillos del Camino and the stickest mud I have ever walked through into Hontanas,I sat in the bar there with what looked like canoes attached to my feet.
But this is the Camino and every time I feel low it provides.
when I left Los Arcos early after arguing with the rude owner of the Albergue the sun broke through and gave me the best early morning diserted walk into Sansol,there to share 2 coffees with Sandra from Canada who was also feeling low.and one hour later with spirits revied we hit the road.
when I walked out of SJPP with my daughter Sally we met 2 Korean girls Hatchi and Kimi who were walking the full 28km.we enjoyed their company and worried about them in their lightweight plimsoles as they left us at Orrison,we never met them again.
walking through Azofra feeling the pain in my knee and thinking that maybe I would finish in Burgos I was enveloped in a double hug from the two girls who had taken 12 hours to walk to Roncesvalles,their laughter and good humour was infectious and as I shared their bread and cheese my love for the way was restored.
and so it goes on,you quickly become friends with so many people and we encourage each other on this road to Santiago, but the Knee may still do for me so maybe I finish in Leon ???

Pictures of Spain

2010-05-11T17:43:00.000+01:00

The Man With the Tan

2010-05-06T13:57:00.001+01:00

Now in Los Arcos,it has been a strange old week raining for most of it ,with strong winds and hailstones as we walked over Alto de Perdon.
I stand out for a change as one of the only North Europeans with a tan, any others have invairable also started their Camino in France, I am vain enough to take pride in telling people this when asked how come I have a tan or where did I start from,I also take great pride in the fact my passport has so many stamps but so far no one seems so impressed with the size of my passport.
there are so many people now on the Camino some starting in SJPP others in Roncesvalles or Pamplona, my walking companion was in tears as she reached Estella,the large crowds had got to her,she had thought of this journey for 10 years and didn,t think she could continue,we walked a short 2k passed Estella to the sports hall and nearly had it all to ourselves,plus we heard that the 3 refuge were all filled by the end of the day.
a good walk nearly all to ourselves to Los Arcos the last 7 km being realy beutifull and both she and me are ready for the rest still to come.
I plan trying to get out of sinc with the crowds by staying at the small places.
the main change for me is the "Ground Hog Day" effect its amazing how many memories flood back as I walk,I sit in bars expecting old friends to join me, they weather is so different too I now walk through mud where once my neck turned red with the heat.
but I must walk this Camino and not last years.
So many people walked down through the woods into Roncesvalles and for some their Camino is now over,
one young man 27 years of age Christian for germany joined me for a meal in Zubiri,his knee was bad and he planned to rest up for a few days,he had worked for 7 years as a chef in Magalulf a party town and now hoped to walk the Camino before returning to his home town to look after his ageing parents of 62, when he mentioned this to the table of 3 danish women and one from Italy including myself all older than his parents we all howled with laughter and regaled him with stories of our lives as we relived the 60,s
one of the Danish women had been an au pair and then worked in bond street in London in the 1960,s She had had a great time, the italian had drove a truck in England when she was a student and was now carrying the ashes of her 25 years younger husband to Santiago,as we relived the times of the 60,s Christian vowed to view his parents in a diffent light.He left us reliving the 1960,s and as we started to sing the old songs we were asked to leave the table for being too loud,us baby boomers never forget how to party!!
the other high note was when we diverted to Eunate a Knights Templar church where if you walk barefoot round the outside 3 times you will be filled with new vigor,Which we did much to the delight of the 2 tourist buses that took pictures,I don,t think I was filled with new strengh but who knows.
a little of what my walking comanion feels came home to me today, In a place were I slept alone in a room ment for 4 last year the whole town is full, people had to keep walking for another 6 km, tomorrow we walk 29km to Logrono and have already booked our rooms,4 to a room at 20 euros each.
we have to up our game.

A Full House

2010-05-01T01:46:00.000+01:00

Sat here in Roncesvalles under a full house of pilgrims. The town is packed, I met some who had to take 50 euro rooms. the Camino is so busy but so full of life and energy
I was feeling realy tired as I walked into SJPP from Osbanot having met up with daughter number 1 (Sally) it felt like the end of the journey rather than the halfway stage, but being with my daughter and standing in the street in SJPP watching all the new Pilgrims looking and smelling really clean walk up the hill to the Pilgrim office and then meeting some of them at dinner in the L,Esprit du Chemin you could not help but be lifted by all the nervous energy as they prepared to start and I was filled with new resolve that has carried me over a misty and rainy route Napoleon to Roncesvalles.
After the quite walk through France the noise and energy is a heady mix as new people are met from all corners of the globe.
the town is so full,finding places to sleep is going to be interesting but hey I,m on the Camino and happy to be here

Pomps and Circumstance

2010-04-26T18:07:00.001+01:00

Catching the bus from Condom to Aire_sur_I,Adour ( 1hour) was as always like a jump foreward in time you spend weeks walking you tend to blend in and then this mad dash with Buck Rogers of the 21st C.
walked about Aire for a while nice city but at 12 30 feeling a fraud decided to bang out 18k to Miramont and bang it out I did my mind in a dream it seemed like no time before I was there having written 2 books in my head thought of 2 films saved the world by knocking the heads of a hundred dandylions and having 2 slightly disterbing erotic daydreams either there is something in the water or I need to drink more of it.
Miramont has a nice gite and then set of the next morning aiming for Pomps 33k fell short by 4k fell being the operitive word,I am keen to walk with Daughter number1 from Ostabat but still a full day behind so walking just 11k the next morning excepted a lift into Navarrenx and here I stay 40k short one day left having made the mistake of a good lunch.
this part of France lends itself to slowing down and long lunches the last week or so has been a bit similar lush green fields and gently rolling hills you don,t need to fight climb and earn your views here they are handed to you on a plate and invite you to lay down a while and have a picnic,no wonder a lot of French painters depict quite rural settings with friends family lovers laying about all over the place having lots of picnics
I find myself pinning for the Pyrenees, there is a definet end to this part of the way and I long for the madhouse that is Spain and the great melting pot of the Camino Frances

CONDOM

2010-04-23T16:48:00.000+01:00

Could not resist putting up the pics of the trees_I seem to be going through my tree period.
I sit here in Condom having said goodby to Syblle my walking companion for the last few days having met her in Auvillar a hilltop village with the best gite ever a truly 4 star stay.you pay for the night at the tourist office and are then escourted by a frail old lady to your quarters at the other end of the village, she spends the afternoons going backward and forward.no shops open as this was a Monday as opossed to Saturdays and Sundays when there also closed. at Lauzerte another beutifull hilltop village I had asked to use the computer at the tourist office only to be told this was impossible as it was a Friday???
the first 2 weeks you seem to spend your nights in valley towns only to spend the first hour or two of the new day climbing steep climbs out of them I longed for a downhill start to the day, now I spend the last hour climbing steep hills into hilltop towns a hard end to the day.
things have levelled off now and I walk through green fields that remind me of home at a nice pace of 20k a day;Syblle was a good companion and we talked of many things as we walked through this very still quite timelass landscape. Syblle goes back to Germany and tomorrow horror of horrors I have to catch a bus to Aire_sur_i,Adour in order to be able to meet my Daughter in Ostabat_Asme who walks with me for 4 days to Roncesvalles. I made the mistake of thinking I could do the same mileage as Spain ,at first I could,t and now I just enjoy each day and take what ever the days bring and dont worry about the clicks.
thanks for all the comments they do give me strengh and the will to continue.
I met Rob from the Forum at conques and a few others that read the forum,and all sing the praises of Kiwinomad and find her blog invauluable (just to let you know Margaret)
I will try to post more as I get nearer to Spain

I,ve Looked At Trees From Both Sides Now

2010-04-23T16:04:00.001+01:00

i i

Sat in Moissac with the Memories

2010-04-18T11:04:00.003+01:00

19 days in and taking a rest day,the knee and back hurts and if truth be told I need to do a big wash before my entire wardrobe starts walking to Santiago by themselves.
the days have starting to merge into one big long walk sleep eat and walk again world and its hard to retain the memories of what has been a hard but great walk.
Certain moments stand out the 34K walk to Aubrac and on to Espalion being the pinnicle_the elation of walking to the snow capped peak and then the long mad walk down into spring will stay with me a long time .
Spring it seems has now turned into hot glorias Summer my pealing nose and red face a testiment to my Englishness.
The landscape too has changed from the pine woods through to the long lanes lined with Plane? trees and the rivers and canals running through the the now more frequant larger towns.
The walk from Le Puy to Conques is a Camino in itself a great start and to finish sleeping in the abbey makes it compleat.
My walking companion for most of the way has been Thierry the last of the Jonnie Depp camino,s the others long since gone home or retired hurt_Sonia is still about and turns up now and again each time minus more lost items.
With my thoughts on the big picture of Santiago 1500km down the road I have been putting in too many long 30 plus days in,( not always intentionally as its easy to get lost trusting red and white stripes that try and take you on a 54k detour round Cahors****) using the 45 year old Thierry as my rabbit as we burn up the miles down this rocky road thats so hard on the feet.
Thierry now goes back to Paris ( train strikes permitting ) and I have decided to slow down and take each day as it comes as I continue on this day by day increasingly busy road

let the pictures teel the story_a walk from winter into spring back to front

2010-04-09T16:09:00.001+01:00

conques

2010-04-09T15:03:00.000+01:00

have arrived at conques and just booked into the abbey; a great 10 days walk and compleat in itself.
the internets are in short supply so not had much chance to blog since my last childlike scrawl,
this has been a good walk and just now starting to feel like i am on the camino.
what i intend to do is take time out soon to rest a little and heal my sores and will write in detail and post pics.
just to say to family my mobile is dead for the moment (no network)

one week in

2010-04-04T16:17:00.000+01:00

the first thing to know about the le puy route is not a lot of computers .
just booked into gite barry in aumont aubrac, a desk between me and it so just gonna go for it.
walking that first 10k from my house to the station let me know what i was in for-should have thrown the pack away then8but carried on via cardiff and london through to paris and down to saint ettienne in what seemed like one smooth motion while changing for the ley puy train was grabbed and i mean grabbed by a french lady who had seen my forum patch and wanted to regale me with her own trip ,last year_ we shared many shared moments and as my train pulled in i got my first bonn camino and after looking at my pack a large hug and a kiss on the cheek as if she did,t expect me to return,
   i and about 8 backpacking others got off at le puy each looking to see if anyone had a clue where to go next, we set off down the hill waiting to see who took the leed_ all the people there i would meet many times in the next week greating each other like lost friends_ but that night we were strangers and no words spoken.
the route st jack is left passed the tourist office next to which is thye cafe tam tam_ free internet if you buy a drink ( not found out till next morning)
booked into the gite capucins all front and no substance enjoyed a birthday meal and drink.
after the7 oclock mass the pilgrim passport from the most jovial nun ever (the walk up to the cathedal nearly did for me a fortaste of things to come)
then up hills and down dales to saint_privat d allier hard hard hard i was carrying too much weight and though the sun was shining this wasn,t kansas we where high up and snow was on the ground_the walk down to the gite acceual (no booking and donativo) well recomended was rough i,m sure trolls come out at night and fill the path ,with rocks and expose the tree roots to catch out the pilgrms.
nice people in the gite including 3 blackclad frenchmen adorned with silver and self made knife,s all the world looking as if they were on the camino jonnie depp their traverling companion a girl called sonia also there was a group who insisted i looked like the singer joe cocker.
a great night spoiled only by a secret snorer at the far end of the room.
the next day april the first was no joke the walk through monistrol to savage snow ice walk alone camera not working too cold to function. the first two days of this camino are the hardist walking i have ever done.
with no one to talk to (for me that makes it even harder) red squirrells and the odd donkey.
saugues was a fun night a penitance walk round the village by a crowd of kkk clad men  and two bare footed large cross carrying youths dressed in bright red swaying as they circled the town  after sharing a meal and lots of wine with sonia and the french lads i went out to view the large parade with what seemed like the whole town out in force was later joined by sonia as the lads had gone to their own beds me and sonia having been allocated a twin bedded onsuite which was nice_loudspeakers blared out what i presumed was some sort of service the crowd joining in the singing including in a good clear voice sonia,
after the second circle of the town centre i started to sway with everybody  else more drink induced in my case and we decided to head to our beds with a slight detour via a bar so sonia could get more ciggarettes.
we fell into our seperate beds only for me to be wokened up by sonia the secret snorer of the night before was revealed.

On The Road again

2010-03-25T21:08:00.001Z

Right that's it,all packed and ready---ish to go-pack too big what with the tent an all.my size 12 English-13 American-46 European trainers make the pack look smaller-but it is over 11 Kilo's,Because its longer this year and earlyer carrying more but it can all be disgarded as the walk goes on-a sort of a long distance paper chase.
Walk out the door tomorrow 10k to the nearest train station and then roundabout route taking in Cardiff-London-Paris and then Le- Puy start walking the Camino on Wednesday 31st, the day after my birthday By then I will have touched base with all my children and grandchildren which feels good-even Emily daughter number 3 called by for a late breakfast today, even showed me how to download the last 2 episodes of my guilty pleasure "Glee"

one of the sayings about the Camino is it doesn't give you what you want-but what you need.so it was rather apt that my programms climaxed with glee-club singing the Stones "You can't always get what you want" Farewell glass of wine in hand I joined in the singing "But if you try sometime you just might find ----you get what you need"

The Games Afoot

Spring Spring Spring

2010-03-02T20:38:00.000Z

England has just been through its worst winter for 40 years,I loved most of it but wasn't aware of how the cold and damp had eaten into my soul.
the last two days we have had bright sunshine and a change of season, my garden or wasteland has suddenly burst into life as the emerging spring flowers opened up to the sun,I am caught up in the rebirth and blitz the housework even clean the windows while basking in the warmth of the sun,its my favorite season full of new possabilities.I never get over how a few small flowers and the sun can fill you full of so much optimism for the future.
any doubts of my ability to do this new challenge have faded away "its a new day it's a new year"

New Beginnings

2010-02-26T21:29:00.003Z

Son number 1 with Matthew and Emma born 10th Jan.how small and fragile they both look,still the good thing about twins is only one birthday for Granddad to remember.
my own birthday 30th March all being well will find me speeding through the French countryside on route to Le Puy-en-Velay ready to start this years Camino on the 31st.
have decided to travel by train this year a bit more organic plus I get to carry my favorite knife-corkscrew-nail clippers ect-all denied me in hand luggage by flight.
looking forward to the high speed double decker train from Paris birthday drink in hand France outside my window.
have spent the last few weeks in a frenzy (a little) of activity trying to get some funds together for the trip-4000 telephone books have been delivered-letter boxes of all shapes and sizes have to be negotiated-plus the yapping dogs and the more dangerous silent salivating monsters that wait ready to feed on my fingers--letter-boxes are fixed in my mind now like a drunkards dt's, I can now bore people with the fact that the most common street name in England is Church road and the "Red Lion" most popular public house.
every item of walking gear as now been tested in the worst winter conditions England has seen for 40 years and torential rain sweeps through Spain and France as I write, This 1000 mile Camino is going to test me to the limits, I have to admit to feelings of trepidation this time,but that's how it should be
cold icy morning walks are tinged with the danger of slipping and falling, road walking not the best surface,but just to be out feeling that you have the new day all to yourself is worth it,right up to the point the young jogger flies past on his well toned youthful legs wishing me good morning as he leaves me in his wake wondering how come he's not slipping and sliding-maybe I should start wearing trainers?.
just over 4 weeks left to put the finishing touches to my own well-toned body ( in my mind) and decide what kit to take with me-giving serious thought to a tent and stove to offset the higher costs of France.


                               .

"The Painted Pony's Go up and Down"

2010-01-01T17:11:00.007Z

"And the seasons they go round and round"

so New Years day another year-2010.

its got a good ring to it.

feel it could be a good one-woke up feeling optimistic
also a little hungover and a lot over weight the Camino weight loss has crept back on, so day one of the new year,so lets start as we mean to go on.

freezing cold out but once I got going and the sun started to rise-what a beautiful day,

felt I had it all to myself-so still -so quite-just distant Echo's of the odd shotgun their owners out wild fowling.

thoughts of the Camino intrude-just 3 months and the practicalities to consider-this time walking twice as far,over 1000mls and the only new kit is some 1000ml socks and a pop up tent that fits into a circular cover that when strapped to my back makes me look like a ninja turtle-not very practical but at the moment as far as expensive's go very much a necessity.

I love putting my boots on in a morning such a good fit so comfortable these ruby slippers that took me all the way down the yellow brick road to Santiago.but as comfortable as they are wear and tear is taking its toll and I don't think they have got a 1000mls left in them, so on with the new-they may have to be disgarded.

the water pic is from a bridge on high fen.

the mound is of sugar-beet the smoking building in the background is a sugar factory at this time of year working non stop.

so a good start to what I hope will be a great year.

Winter Sun Portugal

2009-12-13T16:36:00.006Z

Taking advantage of a cheap winter deal,I'm just back from a relaxing week in a beachfront apartment in Albufeira Portugal on the Atlantic Ocean near Cape St Vincent the most westerly point in Europe the true Finisterra end of the Earth nothing but water between me and America.
and a very tranquil time was had.
in season this tourist town is packed-out of season I nearly had it all to myself-the locals complained about the cold but having scrapped ice off my car in order to drive to the airport the December sun ( 20c) of Portugal was heaven to me and the other pale skinned North Europeans attired in shorts and t-shirts walking in the surf.
For a long time I have been unable just to relax and spend the day just reading a book, but on this break I read two in between walks on the beech and trips out to the mountains and small villages inland.

a truly relaxing time just letting the last of the years warmth wash over me.

a first time in Portugal for me but certainly not the last I could get used to winter breaks only maybe for longer next time.

having decided to start my next Camino in late March/early April my thoughts are starting to turn to the practicalities like money-equipment (new boots maybe) do I take a lightweight tent to offset the more expensive accommodation in France?

its all starting to feel very close-and the sooner the better for me having started putting the Camino weight loss back on and Christmass still to come!!!

The Die Is Cast

2009-11-06T21:13:00.004Z

The dice was rolled and unbelievably

6 came up again-the number designated to the Le Puy route to Santiago-twice as far as walked this year.

don't know if I have it in me but Le Puy it is-I will have to start late March or early April and allocate 10/12 weeks, already I am excited by the prospect
and there is a new vigor in my morning walks and now carrying a full pack-maybe a bit sad but its brought a focus back into my life and an achievable goal to work towards.

the Highland cattle are there because I forgot to put them in the village blog and they remind me of a brand of toffee I used to like as a child-along with the Camino all very comforting.

The Village

2009-10-27T22:22:00.012Z

This is my village, my home ,my training ground and also my playground for the next year at least.

great Autumn colours at the moment,I have lived here since August and in that short time have already seen so many changes as the year turns round-so much more noticeable here in rural Norfolk than anywhere else I have lived.

"Say is there beauty yet to find deep meadows yet,for to forget

the lies and truths and pain?....oh! yet stands the church clock at ten to three and is there honey still for tea".

The old Vicarage Grantchester--Rupert Brooke 1912

my granddaughter Queen Izzy turned 4 this year and continues to prepare herself for world domination.

The Dice Man

2009-10-26T19:44:00.007Z

a cult book of the 70's was "The Dice Man" about a man who made his life choices by rolling a dice. 6 options with one choice being one not normally one you would make.

one of the street artist of Berlin becoming well known is "El Bocho"

Sticker art is the new Graffiti and considered less an offence,you paste your poster up rather than spray can.

I went to an exhibition of this mans work in a Berlin squat cost me 1 euro to get in and had to leave my bag at the door in case I was carrying spray cans or something worse.

my favorite Berlin graffiti artist is number 6 who just paints the number 6 on boarded up buildings or other underused facilities, feeling a bit of an underused facility myself the other night-started to play with the die and allocated the unwanted- the not normal to the number 6.

It came up 6 I rolled a second and then a third time each time resulting in the number 6 the number of the beast.

it realy freaked me out-and I spent the rest of the day figuring out what to do to match the three sixes.

I had spent the last 10 years trying not to be normal- I didn't want normal-don't do normal-but along the way it was normal for me to have a drink every day-7 days a week and when I say a drink I'm not talking singular. So no choice realy I'm going to stop drinking for a while.

its been getting worse of late so a stupid dice can be the start.

I like to be in control-and the drink had started to be in control of me-so it has to go-day 2 and counting.

also started the morning training walks again-I miss the Camino-the simplicity of it all,but which one to do next? perhaps I'll let the dice decide.

Leaving Berlin

2009-10-15T19:51:00.007+01:00

Berlin with two of my daughters brought a new dimension to the break I had two women telling me what to do!!

but hey I got to do things that I hadn't done before-river cruses etc and share some of the things I had already done

nice end to my visit even got propositioned on oranienburger str by a lovely girl in tall white boots,who must have been out with her sisters also in white boots who for some reason were standing on the other corners of the junction.

I could live in Berlin,which is always the yardstick I judge any city on

the only downside are the cyclists,

having been allocated cycle lanes all over the city they take this as a passport to go where they please in that arrogant aren't we being very green sort of way,but wobetide anyone who strays into their cycle lane or don't jump out of the way when they hurtle pass.

my god they even let them on the tube-there is no escaping them-its the new plague I tell you.!! ( hey whats the point of a blog if you can't have a rant now and then )

Berlin Stories

2009-10-08T12:52:00.006+01:00

talking advantage of a 2 pound return flight on Ryan air, (yes they do exist) found me in Berlin for 3 weeks, how to fill the time was the question flying in, now its nearly time to come home the question is how did 3 weeks pass so quickly.
Berlin is a large city with a small population ( 3.8m) and lots of space to breath plus a vibrant night life.
As I discovered on the Camino sleeping in hostels and bunk beds is a passport to a varied social life
my guides and companions have included Paco Nick David Evo Andy and Kleba from all corners of the globe,together we pub crawled sightsee'd and clubbed our way into oblivion. the highlights included various beach bars,falling down house squat parties and one memorable evening with a room full of heavy chained punk Janet and Johnnie rottens followed by a chill out in the Barbie Bar (vivid pink decor) always ending up in that 4am walk home,never once feeling in danger and always among smiling faces.
this tired old man keep ed up with the pace for 4 nights before crying uncle.
this city has so many faces all in in a constent flux, I have stood beneath the Michael Jackson baby dangling balcony while in sight of the Brandon burgh Tor and the Reichstag's burned down and now restored with its walkable domed glass roof.
only 20 years ago this was a walled in area cut off from the rest of Berlin and the world, now you can be photographed with flag flying moonlighting male strippers dressed as solders -living statues or costumed giant Berlin bears.
all under the gaze of gun carrying guards outside the nearby American embassy
A short walk down unter den linden where all the lime trees are tagged and numbered?? brings you to the book burning square opposite Humboldt university ( most noble prize winners).
nothing to mark the square out apart from a glass covered small room with empty book shelves set in the floor and the inscription :Those that start out burning books finish up burning people:
as if in a form of penance the area outside the university that Einstein Freud Karl Marx and Engels attended is a daily market just with book stalls.
so it goes on every area taking you through all the emotions
I have walked past panel painted restored sections of the Berlin Wall now the worlds largest open air art gallery,visited king Frederick's summer palace in Potsdam and sought out banksy graffiti.
all the while under the gaze of the Mother Ship the giant TV tower that dominates Alexanderplatz and Berlin.
I now rest and gird my loins for the arrival of Daughters number 1 and 3 who are joining me for the last weekend.

The Year Of Change

2009-09-21T08:07:00.004+01:00

Early this year I said that this would be a year of change, and bring it on
A Chinese saying that comes to mind is "be careful what you wish for they may come true"
most of the changes have been great,daughter number 2 has just finished her masters got the job of her dreams and is in the process of setting up home with her boyfriend, son number 2 graduated and has also moved in with his girlfriend.
Son number one and his wife Kate have just informed me that I'm to be a Grandfather again,this time to twins, daughter number 3 got great A level results.
I'm truly blessed, even the fact that me and Rosie have split and gone our separate ways in time will prove to be positive I'm sure , but the past few weeks have not been the best.
I came back from the camino so strong, only for that strengh to be tested to the full as the practicalities were sorted out -the clearing of the family home-the trips to the tip-its amazing how little of the 25 years was kept as we went into a frenzy of cleansing.
the house is gone and we now have separate homes ( my bungalow) I have spent 25 years not being the most important person in my life,while not exactly moving to the front I can now be more selfish and think of my own needs first.
there will be more travel ( just setting off on a 3 week trip to Berlin) more walking more camino's.
so I now have my new base in rural Norfolk -spent too long licking my wounds its time to move on and experience what else this wonderful road to nowhere has to offer, as the fool once said "bring it on"

"This Used To Be My Playground"

2009-08-10T20:26:00.004+01:00

This is Yeadon the town I grew up in and left for the golden streets of London when I was 21.

Yeadon Tarn

or the "Dam" was my playground

just short of one mile in

circumference,it was where the school sports and cross country running took place, my first cigarette was smoked here, in fact most of my firsts took place in this hallowed setting.

now the Dam is known as "Tarnfield Park" no rowing boats can be seen now no motorboat no swimming,the Leeds and Bradford Airport runway now reaches to and beyond the Dam,but its still a place of beauty fond memories and lots of ghosts,
now I walk in circles round this playground keeping fit and trying to keep my post Camino body trim and the ghosts are walking with me,Gillian,Cathleen, Mick Kaye Martin Girt,Dave Walker Slim and Pete and so many more.

I am here caretaking the empty family home that no one is rushing to buy and visiting my mother in her care home and it all seems very strange,don't know if I'm climbing back into the womb or experiencing a rebirth. Behind our house is the banks and the footpath over the Chevin to Otley,I used to so love this walk home from my place of work in Otley (saving on the bus fare to buy cigarettes)

up the 1001 steps past the frying pan rock and onward passed Bluebell wood.

during my nostalgic wanderings the other night I had a Camino moment when meeting a young women training for a climb up "Mount Kenya" by walking up the "1001 steps" from Otley, she reminded me how much I miss the start of an adventure,

so now I plan to walk the Camino up from Sevilla to Santiago early next year---Game on

" So What Happens Now...."

2009-08-01T10:02:00.002+01:00

another Backpack in another hall.
whenever I read other Blogs about the Camino I always wonder so what next? Back to the daily reality I suppose,Someone once said when you walk the Camino your brain takes a rest, and how true that is,
Now I have walked the Way I understand why people would want to do it again,I started this as a challenge to see if I still had it, to howl at the moon and say yes I walked over 800Klm.
But somewhere round week 4 I entered a zone of peace and quite I walked slower more upright and all was well with my world.
now back home other things intrude and all I want to do is go back to that zone.
I still do morning walks ( can not stop I am now a walker) when stepping aside for the cyclists I can't stop saying "beon camino" to strange looks as they pass.
Have already booked a cheap Ryan air flight to Berlin and back a 3 week tour, as well as being a walker I think maybe I will now become an "old age traveler"
Who knows, the world is now my lobster!!

Random Pictures

2009-07-27T19:25:00.019+01:00

Pride of place goes to David who graduated with honours from the university of small talk,while the Professor takes a Sabbatical and puts some weight back on.

Not With a Bang-----------

2009-07-25T10:17:00.010+01:00

Santiago never felt like a finish, so in search of completion I walked to Finisterra, which was fine in my head but my legs kept saying no, not in the contract pal.
it was like the gym instructor had shouted get down boy and give me 80km more.
Galicia is a beutifull place and their white wine,s are the best,but this is because it rains a lot (Espania Verde--doh ) and rain it did and the fact my wet weather gear was thrown away in Pamplona (the sun was shining)
So with swimming shorts and lightweight T-shirt I braved the elements and with the help of my Edith Pief singing companion Aurelie we made it though it took 4 days and not one Aubergue,all full -taken by the early risers-so be warned.
in one very wet case the only other alturnative a private aubergue was also full ( booked in advance people) an off route hotel was phoned and the son came and picked us up,after 6 weeks of slow walking the speedy car journey freaked me out!!.
sleeping close to so many people for so long sharing a hotel twin bedroom with a young French women is no big deal ( mores the pity) plus its so much cheeper and it had a bath! and boy did I use it.
Walking into Finisterra the sun came out to great us and stayed out the whole day right through to the days end at the lighthouse shared with friends made on this great journey.
the girl from South Africa (Magic from the forum) I met on day one in the Pilgrim office at SJPP was also there closing a perfect circle for me, this happens so much on the Camino its as if you are part of a great wave one of many crashing onto Santiago and within that one wave you connect with all the other pebbles within it.
could not get a fire lit but managed to get the wine open, and this happy group walked the 2km down the hill to town and shared a burger meal (another treat) thanks in part to the adult 12pm curfew at the Albergue.
the fireworks had been missed in Santiago but we had better.

Santiago de Compostela

2009-07-19T12:47:00.003+01:00

my longest days walk brought me into Santiago a day early on Saturday
set off from Arzua with no thoughts of the days end apart from getting close so an easy walk on Sunday a Compostela and a pilgrims mass.
as it was got here saturday at 5pm having walked 38km (can,t beleave it) the old mans still got it.
was helped over the line by Ourelie a friend met early in the walk a friend of Mary-claude who spent the last 5k singing Edith Pief songs.
getting the Compostela from the pilgrims office I was taken by the giant map with all the towns listed and all the memories came flooding back what a journey both for the mind and the body ( I feel so stronger and ready for what ever is to come).
I walked through this tourist town and this time it felt like home I was hailed by old walking companions not seen for days-sat once again in my Square and shared drinks and told stories.
later after eating and making our way back to the accomadation in the old town was even hailed by "Steppenwolf" the giant Austrian who wanted to buy me Jack Danials,another night I said I needed sleep, tomorrow I set off for the ends of the earth at Finisterra

Ponte Campana--Arzua

2009-07-17T17:06:00.003+01:00

Just dropped below the 40km to go
spent last night in a private Albergue in Ponte Campana and for once the system failed just me and a scary-eyed Andoran in the whole place, the first night I have slept uneasy in the whole journey.
have been a bit chesty the past few days and if no better today will see a doctor.
Walking out of the Albergue joined the already large line and we were off another days walking
this time in the rain,the first time in 5 weeks, Galicia never lets you down.
26km later and the chest feeling better arrive in the sun to the modern town of Arzua my home for the night.
these crowded and litter covered paths are not the most enjoyable walks,that and knowing its coming to an end with thoughts of home intruding

On The Road Again

2009-07-16T09:23:00.003+01:00

it took ages to get back to Portamarin a two hour and then a one hour bus journey.
walking through Santiago early morning was strange,I did not belong there not just yet,my place was back with the rag tag and bobtailed army I had left behind, every now and then they could be seen at the side of the road and strung out across some field.
got off the bus the same spot I got on,stocked up with water and food and set off late afternoon to see how far I got, one long iron footbridge over the river later my knees were shaking, I swear the side rails only came up to my knees.
8km I had had enough booked into a quite rural casa and rested after what felt like a long day.
after a nice pilagrino meal and a half bottle of vino tinto, the evening took shape like all the other nights before, a couple I knew booked in and joined my table as did Jan a Lancastrian, a gum clinic worker from Manchester, my day was compleat I was back with the great unwashed and we had the world to put to rights as we walked to Santiago!!

Time Out

2009-07-14T19:24:00.009+01:00

tonight I am in Santiago on a day trip.
the people I spent so long walking with Tim=Lee and Viabke finished today and Viabka was flying home to Berlin.
anyone who has walked the Camino will tell you how close you can get to people and these people are special to me, so with days in hand caught a bus to Lugo and then one to Santiago just in time to have a coffee with Viabke and see her off in a taxi to the airport,she had been ill and after being sick in the 12-oclock mass and had to have medical attention,
she had been pushing out 30+ km for a week now in order to finish and get her Compostela
being in Santiago ahead off time was wierd, we had coffee in my special square the one where me and my soon to be ex had spent so much time on our visits to this city, I was suprized by the effect on me as I was brought to tears.
The Camino is such an emotive place you spend so long with the people you walk with years can be crambed into weeks.
still I am now ready for for my next time in Santiago and it will not happen again.
Lee walks to the ends of the earth tomorrow- Tim spends a week in Santiago and I will meet him Friday/Saturday.
So many people not seen for weeks/days are here tonight its such a hugfest,glad I came but tomorrow catch the bus back to Portamarine and continue my own Camino with a happy heart

Night and Day

2009-07-13T17:47:00.003+01:00

Passed the 100km post today and am now in double figures, hard to believe how far I have come,not just in the mileage but I think also in myself.
the last few days have taken me through Samos and Sirias
the Monestary at Samos was huge but the Auberge was small and basic,nearly didn,t make it back in time through being caught up in conversation with a young women from Norway,maybe everybody talks in depth about their reasons for doing the Camino and other personal things but "Why are you doing the Camino" is not a question to be asked lightly I have found, or maybe now I,am old I have the sort of face people trust.
what this women revield over dinner and drinks would have made a great Ibson play and when we rose to get back to the Alberge going by the stares of the other diners we were not the only English speakers there.
Sunday was a short walk to Sirias the last place you can walk and still get a compostella,no place open so me and Anna a young Danish girl sat outside a local bar for the pilagrino menu,we were then joined by Hilda the girl from Norway,the square was once again full of familiar faces and two of them a couple from germany joined our table.
I must stand out as an Englishman as was hailed by strangers from accross the street and informed we had managed to draw with Australia in the first test ( 5 days of play and no result)
the food went down well as did the wine Anna swopped to beer and we were joined by "Steppenwolf" the giant German who I had met on the last long climb who ordered Jack Danials for the table,and so the night rolled on in the now familiar way.
I slept like a baby and woke late to find the town full of people and coaches under starters orders the "Galician Gallop" was under way.
I tried as best I could to walk stately through this town of new boots and small backpacks as only a seasoned pilgrim could feeling good about my new traverling companions but failed.
only when I remembered my own 110km Camino in Febuary and how big a thing it was to me at the time that I relaxed and was ok.I was back in Galicia and it felt like home.
In Galicia they have mileposts every km and so I counted down passed the 100k mark and beyond to Portomarin.
now I go in search of food and a quite night!!!

picture that

2009-07-12T14:09:00.019+01:00

A day in the life

2009-07-10T14:53:00.002+01:00

told in the abergue not to stir till the music plays,not quite ready for the best of opera played at full volume. the tune "o sole o meo" will stay with me the rest of the day.
pack your bag with the now practised ease,breakfast if poss and hit the road limping not running. it takes a while before every thing functions as it should.
today I have 2km to stretch before the big 8km climb to o cebreiro.
the hill comes too early and the first k is painfull you catch your breath my body has not woken up yet, I get passed by everybody (later in the day I pass them all with ease)
what seems a lifetime maybe 2 hours you move above the clouds and the feeling of elation nearly brings me to tears that and the most beutifull views.
the local farmyard cock crows but I will not be denied, no crowds to welcome me but an 100 pipers whisky waits me at the bar, a giant german wolfman with bleaced hair greets me with an offer of a pince of snuff and not yet 10am.
turn the corner to find I am only half way but now with everything working I storm the final few km and for some reason pass striaght through what turns out to be the very small tourist town
of O Cebreiro and head to Linares and a very fine statue plus two cyclists (who I beat to the top)
who inform me of my mistake, nothing left to do but tough it out for another 9 km and finish up in the albergue at Fonfria stake your bed out for the night strip and shower, tend to any blisters ect_wash and hang your clothes to dry-take a welcome pint of "Clara" half beer half limon chill wait your turn on the computer and make plans for dinner "in house tonight 8 euros, hope there is no snorers a good nights sleep and start again.
I passed the 140km sign today.

The Circus comes to town

2009-07-09T19:32:00.002+01:00

today I sat in the town Ruitelan 10km from the hill top town of O Cebreiro just before the last big climb of 8km that marks your entrance into Galicia the last county of the Camino, just 170km give or take left to do.
its the first time I have fallen short of my intended destination but I have still not shaken off the man flu plus so many days in hand I have to go slower.
I,am realy glad I did because as a walker your not aware of the daily circus that passes through these small quite villages.
the last few days have been taken up with walking from Molinaseca via Ponferraid to Villafranca a town so built like a maze it took me ages to find the main square.
Once there you know each face from your travels and the ones you don,t know you soon do.
one day later to sit in a village and watch your whole world for the past few weeks pass before you in a giant parade is intoxicating,some even joining me as we hailed and clapped each one.
to have this rich pagent as a daily circus must seem realy strange to the locals.
each person you meet seems special but every now and then you meet someone extra special
today I spoke to a man who has walked from Lu puy taking nearly 2 months to do so while in the later stages of Parkinsons.
tomorrow I walk10km only to o Cebreiro stay the night and then take a detour to Samos and then Sarria the start of the Galician gallop,
but this boy not to late is learning to slow it down.